Category: Insights

Silk Organzine

The word organzine comes from Organzi, the middle aged name for a city in Turkestan now known as Urgenč, here a long time ago there was a famous silk market. Nowadays this word is referred to a silk thread twisted in opposite directions this process creates strenght.

The Origin of silk

Silk is a protein fiber from which we can obtain a very precious fabric. it comes from the cocoon of the silk worm also known as Bombyx Mori; the worm constructs its cocoon by moving its head in a figure “8” motion, it secrets fibroin, a sticky liquid protein from its salivary glands, which hardens when it comes in contact with the air. (see picture); the cocoon is made of one unbroken thread which can measure from few hundreds meters up to 3 kilometers and it’s made by 20/30 concentric layers.

The art of cultivating silk worms, started in China in 3000 B.C. and China emperors kept this process a jealously guarded secret. Despite of the chinese determination to conserve a monoply on the production, with time the secret was broken and spread to other asian countries. It was around 550 A.C. that the art of cultivating silk worms arrived in Europe; Italy was one of the most important producers. Italian silk production started to decline under the fascist regime that decided to redirect agriculture in new directions. The mulberrys trees were replaced with different crops; the end of the production happened during the second world war when population needed food.

How it’s made

The thread comes directly from the cocoon. Not all the cocoon thread can be used, furthermore it’s necessary to remove the sericin, and at the end of process it’s possible to obtain 1 kg of pure fiber from 10 kg of cocoon. The process starts by steaming the cocoon for nearly one hour to kill the pupae; subsequently the cocoons are immersed in warm water to soften the sericin which holds the cocoon together; at this point the thread can be unwound, this is called raw silk.

  

Charateristics

This fabric is a soft, light, elegant and quite elastic material, futhermore it is hard wearing. Above all, brightness is a much valued characteristic of the silk considered by many to be the most precious of all fibers. Fresh in summer and warm in winter, this material is an extraordinarely insulator. It can absorb humidity more than three times its weight as a result, it is ideal in hot and humid climates.

Our silk products

Wide strap vest – Silk 

Crew neck short sleeves

V – Neck short sleeves

Crew neck long sleeves

V – Neck long sleeves

Briefs

Longjohns

More info

Wikipedia

 

 

Merino wool – the history

The name Merino wool probably comes from the Marinid dynasty, who ruled Morocco and invaded Iberian Peninsula several times.

(Sahrij Madrasa built by Merinid – Morocco)

(Merinid walls – Ceuta – Morocco)

Merino sheep are descended from a breed of sheep which originated in Spain in the XII century; the Spanish people kept them exclusively for themselves until the end of the XVII century. At the beginning of  the XVIII century, Spain donated some of these sheep to France, hence France became the first country which had permission to breed these special sheep. Later, at the beginning of the XIX century, Merino sheep were introduced into Australia, where they found a very favourable habitat, a perfect climate and green pastures. The production of Merino wool fabric had a strong boost during the second world war. Among the main reasons were the requiremnts of the clergy who needed clothing which could be worn in all seasons.

Charateristics of Merino

Merino is a breed of sheep valued for its fleece,  from which comes an exceptional quality fiber. (see photo).

This wool is particularly soft due to its coat fibers, in contrast to normal wool, Merino fibers  are much thinner; in fact, with a diameter less than 20 micron (a millionth of a meter), the  fibers bend when they come in contact with the skin, as a result the faric is very pleasant to the touch. Garments made in Merino wool are very hard wearing, crease resistant and extremely light, consequently  they can be worn in both the hot and the cold seasons. Above all, it has another great advantage:  its hydroscopic ability, this wool can assorb and expell up to 35% of its weight in water, without feeling wet, this quality makes it ideal for sportswear.

(Merino wool fiber)

Production

Each merino sheep can produce up to 10 kg of wool and it is estimated that almost half of the world production comes from Australia. In the country of New Zealand there are more Merino sheep than people! There are approx 27,6 million sheep and only 5,5 million inhabitants. Australian Merino wool comes already assembled in bales and is sold in public auctions, where buyers from all over the world partecipate. The Italian wool mills are amongst the largest buyers and the best quality wool is generally reserved for them.

Our products

Wide strap vest

Crew neck short sleeves

V – Neck long sleeves

Longjohns

More info

Wikipedia

Wool and silk

Wool and silk mix was created to give more softness and resistence to Merino wool, an already top quality fiber; the silk is added in percentage, this can vary from 20 to 30% ( we use 20% mix). The two fibers are carefully mixed as a raw material before they become thread, following a process which guarantees the correct ratio between the two materials. Subsequently, it is  spun to create the thread with the required dimention.

Why silk is added

The main reason is to give softness and strength to the Merino. Above all, the silk must be added in a low percentage (20/30%) so that it doesn’t change the qualities of the wool. As a result, the final fabric is softer on the skin thanks to the flexibility of the fibers. Furthermore, it is also more resistent during washing and slightly warmer.

Also in the spinning process, there are important advantages: the thread is more regular, stronger and easier to twist. Most noteworthy, the silk fibers don’t shrink so they increase the dimentional stability of the fabric and subsequent garments. All the charateristics of the Merino wool such as softness, hygroscopicity and lightness are amplified by the addition of silk. Certainly  we can say without a doubt that this is absolutely the best fabric in terms of quality and price.

Attention!!!!

If the silk percentage is higher than 30% it is a sign of low quality wool, consequently an inferior quality garment. The lower the silk percentage the higher the quality of the wool! We have to remember that the principal fiber is wool, this determines the softness of the fabric, silk is added only to boost this quality.

Our products made in wool and silk

Wide strap vest

Crew neck short sleeves

V – neck long sleeves

Longjohns

More info

Wikipedia

Site security

Site security is provided by Visconti di Angera, we use encrypted connections HTTPS to ensure your privacy and also that of your transactions.

Above all, it is for us very important to guarantee the maximum protection to our visitors and clients. Nowadays technology makes everything easier,(buying goods, booking a hotel, or making payments are all possible online). Due to this exchange of information, we have to protect against hackers. Consequently, with the encrypted connections HTTPS which we provide, you can leave your personal details and purchase goods in complete security. We pay the same attention to detail whether producing garments or securing our site. For us, quality is the most important thing.

What is SSL ?

Secure Sockets Layer (SSL) and its successor Transport Layer Security (TLS), are standard protocols which serve to protect  internet communications.

SSL and TLS use an encrypted system to guarantee the final users the identity and security of a web server and keep encrypted all the communications between the users and the server. Above all, these protocols are most commonly used to guarantee the privacy of sensitive informations which users send to the server. For example passwords or credit card numbers. SSL and TLS need the Web server to have a digital certificate, even better if it is provided by a Certification Authority. The initial connection between a user and a Web server is called “handshake SSL“.

During this connection, the Web server sends its digital certificate to the browser which verifies the validity of the certificate and the legality of the Web server; finally, if everything is ok, a secure connection is made. You should look for the presence of https:// in a link or at the beginning of the browser address; ( https:// www.viscontidiangera.com) this means that SSL/TLS protocols are used, so the connection is secure.

Our homepage – site security

Visconti di Angera

More info on security

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Wool and cotton

The Wool and cotton fabric is created by the joining together of  two specific fabrics. On the outside there is the wool while the cotton is on the inside. The main purpose of this procedure is to avoid the wool being incontact with the skin, this is achieved by interposing a layer of cotton.

 

The production of this fabric

In the production of this fabric, circular macchines are used. These speciality machines  are  able to produce to two fabrics simultaneously. The flat needles (horiziontal) produce the cotton jersey. In this case we use an unmercercised cotton with a soft hand; meanwhile, the cylinder needles (vertical), produce the wool jersey which remains on the outside of the garment. The two fabrics become joined with a very fine Nylon thread. In this way, the wool which is on the outside provides thermal insulation, whilst the cotton which is on the inside, has contact with the skin. The Nylon thread which binds the two fabrics together, remains in between.

This fabric is double treated, first to stabilise the different materials, after which it is soaked in a softening solution for a couple of hours, then rinsed. Finally, when it is dry, the fabric is folded and left to rest for a few weeks, following this process the fabric becomes very stable despite consisting of two different materials.

Charateristics of wool and cotton

This fabric was created for those who are allergic to wool but want to be warm in the cold winters. The inner layer, deliberately not mercerised, gives an even more pleasant  contact with the skin and helps to avoid rashes. Due to its hygroscopic charateristic the comfort on the skin is unbeatable.

Our products

Wide Strap vest

Crew Neck short sleeves

V – Neck long sleeves

Longjohns

More info

Wikipedia

 

Cashmere and silk

Cashmere and silk is a luxurious fiber, the cashmere comes from the fur of Hircus goats, its hand is extremely soft, very velvety and also warm.

The origins of cashmere

The name cashmere comes from the KASHMIR region, which is a disputed territory divided between China, Pakistan and India. Originally this fiber was used by  Asian mountain sheperds to line the inside of their tents also for clothes to protect them from the freezing cold. Despite the legend which tells that cashmere was known since the Roman empire, it’s in fact only towards the 1800’s that its popularity  started to spread thanks to English and French commercial companies.

(Kashmir)

Charateristics of cashmere and silk

The most noteworthy charateristics of this fiber come from the tougth climatical conditions in which the Hircus goats live. In winter the temperature can reach – 30°(celsius); to protect themselves from these conditions, the goats, underneath their external rough fur, have developed another layer of fur which is very soft and dense named DUVET. The secret of the softness of cashmere lays in the finesse of the fibers, which measure  only 14 microns while in contrast, the Merino wool fibers measure nearly double (24 microns). Due to the density of the duvet, the natural air chamber, which is typical in all wool fibers, is amplified  significantly, creating a perfect insulation.

Collection

The precious cashmere fibers, are collected from the  Hircus goats in spring, when the climate conditions are favourable. Using a specific comb, the goats are combed in the belly area and also under the throat where the duvet is denser and softer; this process is respectful and non invasive; it yields an average of 150/200 grams of the highest quality cashmere.

Production of cashmere and silk

Italy is  the number one country in the world in terms of quantity and quality for transforming the fibers in thread and subsequently fabric. Most noteworthy is the region of Piedmont, where in the areas of Biella and Valsesia, the most famous companies in the world are located. Here, the highest quality fibers (the extra long) are transformed; due to the unique water purity of the rivers Sesia and Cervo the final product is excellent.

(Cervo river)

The addition of silk

To make the cashmere ideal for underwear production, we add 30% of  extra pure silk. As a result of this addiction, the thread becomes more resistent and better suited to the circular knitting machines, furthermore, the resulting fabric is extremely soft but more resistent. Consequently, the underwear garments which are frequently washed have a longer life.

(Silk)

Some of our products made in cashmere and silk

Crew neck short sleeves

V – neck short sleeves

Crew neck long sleeves

V – neck long sleeves

Longjohns

More info

Wikipedia

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Interlock fabric

Interlock fabric is a knitted fabric, it is made by a series of stainless steel needles that cross each other working alternatively. This type of production creates a double knit fabric, making it very soft,  visually it resembles a honeycomb; the back and the front oft he interlock are exactly the same.

Charateristics of interlock

A peculiar positive quality of this fabric, considering it is very compact, is that a lot of air is trapped between the fibers, making it very insulant; furthermore, this fabric is very breathable, a quality which makes it also ideal for underwear and also for sporting activities .

Its use

As a result of its charateristics, (its flat surface also its identical front and back)  it’s perfect for underwear products. Interlock fabric is produced in house in wool but also wool and silk to create winter garments which are very soft and warm; it is also possible to use cotton to realise this fabric, in this case the use is for pyjamas.

Interlock – How it’s made

Often, when interlock is made in cotton, we brush the inner part to make it warmer and  more comfortable. Doing this procedure we create a “warm cotton” that it’s very good for new born babies and for those who don’t like wool or who have allergies. Above all, it’s very important to correctly iron this material in order to obtain a very stable product, in fact most of the knitting tensions are released by the ironing process. The ironing is done firstly with steam and then again by passing the fabric between two hot metal cylinders. Brushing is not done with woollen fibers because it’s not necessary due to its intrinsic charateristics.

Some of our products made in interlock

Crew neck short sleeves

Crew neck long sleeves

V – neck short sleeves

V – neck long sleeves

Longjohns

More info

Wikipedia

 

 

Brushed cotton

Brushed cotton or winter cotton was created following a need in the market for a warm fabric which is also completely hypoallergenic.

The Thermal insulation in wool is created by the air being trapped between the fibers, similarly in brushed cotton, the same effect is obtained by brushing the inner part. Not all types of cotton are suitable for this process; the Egyptian ones for example are too dry. Brushed cotton is produced by using American or Indian cotton because they are more soft and fluffy, hence more air is trapped.

How it’s made

This fabric is made in house, we use a circular machine that creates a ribbed fabric; it’s also possible to produce this fabric in interlock.

We decided to use ribbed fabric because it’s more stable, (it doesn’t twist) it also gives a certain elasticity and weight. The threads used in this process are quite thick (24/1 or 30/1) as a result they contribute by giving body to the fabric. Finally the fabric is brushed to create the thermal effect; an added benefit is softness on the skin.

Advantages of brushed cotton

This fabric has four fundamental advantages

• Hypoallergenic
• Easy maintenance
• Long lasting
• Low price

Hypoallergenic: it goes without saying that cotton is very comfortable on the skin, its fibers are softer and more flexible in contrast to those of wool.

Maintenance: cotton does not felt and bears intensive washing, its maintennace is easier compared to that of wool, which needs far more attention.

Long lasting: brushed cotton is made by using a thick thread, consequently it is very resistent; cotton is naturally stronger than wool, and it is not eaten by moths.

Low price: the cotton thread used to create this fabric, costs a lot less than Merino wool or silk, therefore  garments made in this fabric have a lower price.

Features

This fabric is particularly suitable for those who suffer from allergies or have sensitive skin.

Some of our products in heavy brushed cotton

Crew neck short sleeves

V – neck short sleeves

More Info

Wikipedia

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Tricot – the history

The world Tricot comes from the French Language. It means knit, in fact it is used  to cover everything related to the knitting process in order to create a fabric. Its origins of tricot seems to go back to the IV century a.c. where in  ancient Greece a fabric very similar to modern tricot was used to make ceremonial dresses.

The Modern Era

With coming of the industrial revolution in the middle of the 800’s, machines were built, doing work that before it was possible to do only by hand. The knitted fabric once hand made with the classic iron needles, now was produced by flat knitting machines which were hand operated. (see picture)

Subsequently with the second industrial revolution, the driving force changed from hand power to  steam and then finally electricity. Conceptually, the tricot machines remained the same, with the same working concept, but the productive capacity increased considerably. In fact, in order keep up with the new requests from an evergrowing market the production volume was significanty increased. Nowdays, most of the mechanical parts of the flat knitting machine, have been substituted with electronics, following modern tendencies and  using new Technologies. This allows for a larger variety of designs also more precision.

 

Above all one of the best charteristics of the flat knitting machine is the possibility to change pattern mid production; consequently, the wristbands and waistband are ribbed and exactly as in the jumpers there are no seams, this makes our tricot garments more comfortable and luxurious.

Charateristics of tricot

Furthermore, this type of knitting has a very good elasticity also body, when Merino wool is used, the fabric become soft and heavy, giving a great protection against the cold.

Some of our tricot products

Crew neck short sleeves

Crew neck long sleeves

Longjohns

More Info

Wikipedia

 

 

Care of wool

The care of wool, especially Merino is very important, due to it’s well known charateristics it is considered a very luxurious product; this chart will show you how to avoid damage due to washing.

Above all, it’s very important to use warm water and liquid detergents, for the reason that powdered ones can cause holes where the powder gets in contact with the wool. Fill a bowl with warm water (30° celsius) and add a bit of neutral soap or the one specificly for the wool, then soak the garment for aprox. 10/15 mins. After that, take the garment out of the water without wringing and rinse it very carefully in warm water. Finally, the last rinse must be done with cold water so that the wool doesn’t felt. Furthermore for the correct care of wool it is very important to always wash the garments insideout. The garment must be dried flat to avoid deforming and left to dry away from direct sunlight, most importantly we strongly advise that you don’t dry the wool over heaters or with a direct heat source.

In case of mistakes during washing, for instance wrong temperature or wrong machine cycle, the result will be a felted garment. To try to fix this problem, here are some tips on how to prepare a home made antifelting solution made with natural ingredients. Adding this preparation to the water will help the recovery of damaged wool.

Ingredients:

Sodium bicarbonate

Milk

Citric acid

Sodium bicarbonate fot the care of wool

The first method consists of adding a spoon of sodium bicarbonate to the washing water which must be warm. Sodium bicarbonate will protect our woollen garments and make them soft; in case of felted garments it’s possible to use sodium bicarbonate to try to unfelt the wool, just put two spoonfuls in a bowl with warm water and soak the garment for two hours. Finally it is very important that you always rinse the wool with the same water temperature.

Milk for the care of wool

Method two; it sounds strange, but milk is an excellent natural anti felter, furthermore it is very cheap and easy to find. Just add half a glass of milk directly to the washing water and leave the wool to soak for 10/15 mins. In the case of felted garments, we recommend  adding more milk aprox 30% of the washing water and extending the soaking time to a few hours.

 Citric Acid for the care of wool

Finally ,method three,  the last of our anti felting ingredients  citric acid,which you can find in all shops selling natural or herbal produts and also most chemists; similarly add this product to warm water when hand washing and then follow the same procedures as explained above in methods one and two.

 Advice

Furthermore it is possible to mix the three products and keep ready for use; a particularly good result can be obtained when you mix sodium bicarbonate and citric acid; just mix two parts of sodium bicarbonate to one part of citric acid. Store in a glass jar in a dry place. If you prefer a liquid, dissolve one spoonful of citric acid in a glass containing equal amounts of milk and water; likewise this solution can be stored in a bottle, but in this case there are no problems with humidity.

Some of our products made in wool

Narrow strap vest

Crew neck short sleeves

Longjohns

More info

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