Category: Insights

 The history of dyeing

The  dyeing of fibers or fabric is practice as old as the world. From when man first appeared on earth he has tried to use natural colours; from flowers, plants and other organic substances to dye or colour his belongings. The first findings of this process, date from Neolithic times, obviously the colours used in that period were limited to the surrounding nature. For example the ancient Egyptians  used spices such as cumin, henna and saffron to dye their fabrics. The Phoenicians where known for were producing a purple dye from a sea snail called the spiny dye-murex. All areas of the world were developing different techniques and colours. From each we can identify the zone of origin, you need only to think of batik from India or the vibrant colours of  the Maya Inca Aztecs made using the cochineal or tree roots

With the passing centuries , thanks to new discoveries and the beginning of commercial trade the dyeing process continued to improve. In Florence many labour corporations were formed including one of Dyers. This corporation enabled the dyers to create rules to protect and regularize their craft. Each dyer specialised in one colour of which only he had the knowledge to reproduce. The discovery of America brought new colours and new techniques. It was only in 1856 when William Henry Perkin, an English chemist accidently discovered that you could create the colour mauve from aniline that chemicals where be used to create colours often in favour of natural ingredients.

(William Henry Perkin)

Dyeing Today

The dyeing of thread, is a long cycle of work. It transforms the raw thread into a coloured one, thanks to the use of chemical substances. It is very important that the colour prenetrates deeply into the fiber to produce a solid and lasting colour. The first step of the cycle is to remove the impurities; these if kept may produce a diversity in the final colour. Then the spools of thead are put into special autoclaves, after into an alkaline bath which also contains the colouring substances. These substances, must be able to reach the center of the fiber, to give uniformity and activate the chemical process necessary to fix the colour.  The last two phrases are: the washing which eliminates the excess colour and the oxidation which fixes the colour permantly and makes it insoluble in water.

(Autoclavi)

This process can last up to 12 hours and at the end the spools are dried in a spin dryer which eliminates the bulk of the water. To ensure the right degree of humidity the spools  are treated with jets of air or microwaves. In the next stage, the threads are checked to control the colour is uniform and water resistant. Garments produced with thread  which has been dyed have a much better stability of colour than  garments produced with a dyed fabric. Today the dying of the fabric is a widely used process, the technique is fast and economical but the final results are inferior in terms of colour solidarity and duration.

The philosophy

Our company, keeps your health in mind; we produce top quality garments which are worn close to the skin. Our aim is to protect your body, because many of our garments are in contact with the skin we use only fabric made with dyed thread. In addition to the fact that this type of process produces the highest quality dying, our threads are dyed in Italy in compliance with the relevant laws. Italian law is very strict. In fact forbids the use many colouring and chemical substances. For example formaldehyde which has been shown to be very polluting and carcinogenic.

 

The pattern – what’s it for?

The pattern is the base for creating a garment. Whether it’s a dress or a pair of boxers, this item is necessary to obtain the correct sizing and shaping of the garment. Above all these paper patterns are crucial to ensuring the precise cut of the fabric and consequently, the perfect sewing of the garment.

What is a pattern? It is a flat drawing of a three-dimentional shape. The fact that the fabric is flat, means  we need a design that we can use in this dimension. The design must bear in mind many factors; for exampe a sleeve not only covers the arm but also part of the shoulder, it must be comfortable, furthermore it must have enough room to allow the arm to move freely. For this reason once it is sewn it must have the correct anatomical shape. Also the front and back of the garment must be tailored to follow our body shape; chest, waist, hips.

(sleeve)

How to make a paper pattern

The pattern making starts with the taking of accurate  physical measurements such as the chest, the shoulders and the hips. Using these measurements a paper pattern is produced. It is a geometric design because it is based on precise calculations and its proportions are governed by the length and width of the original measurements. Consequently a pattern can be created using individual client mesaurements or as in the case of underwear the standard size guide. These basic measurements are then developed and proportionated using a set square. This instrument means we can avoid a myraid of calculations and enables us to speed up the work.

(set squares)

Above all the pattern must allow for many variables. The fabric can be either rigid or elastic, the sewing can “eat” up to one centimeter of the fabric and reference notches must be postioned accurately on each piece in order to match precisely. Furthermore the center and the grain line are always marked, similary the hem allowance and the button positions. In the tailoring world there are also different ways to make an original pattern, for instance Moulage. it consists of draping muslin fabric around a mannequin; it’s a very skilled and difficult technique.

(Moulage)

The history

The first pattern was made around 1400. In this period they started to produce clothing in a more accurate way, using standard sizing and fitting. In the previous era, clothes were used  as a symbol of your social standing The richest people wore fitted bespoke clothing, whilst the poor wore very simple shapeless tunics.

(Pattern from 1400)

Today, the classic paper pattern has been digitized using the CAD system. As a result of using the computer, with its greater precision and  easier storage when combined with the fact that it can be automatically connected to the cutting procedure, the use of the paper pattern has almost been eliminated . Another advantage of this system is to have always on hand all the models with the possibility to modify these by video thus creating new ones. Today every garment produced in our company is made using CAD, although we have conserved in our archives all of the historic paper patterns made since the company was founded in 1977.

(CAD)

 

 

 

 

The history of the sewing machine

The first news  we have about the basic sewing machine is in the year 1755, when  the german inventor Karl Friedrich Wiesenthal was the first person to have the idea of a mechinical sewing system. In 1790 an Englishman Thomas Saint made something very similar but it started with a different concept, his machine used the more complicated chain stitching process.

Even if Germany and England were the countries where the first prototypes of something able to sew mechanically were built, we are still  far away from the concept of the modern sewing machine. The first fully  functioning machine was invented in 1829 by a french tailor, Barthélemy Thimonnier. His machine used a hooked needle and one thread creating a chain stitch, like Thomas Saint’s project. In 1830, with the help of the engineer  Auguste Ferrand who did the technical drawings  Thimonnier opened the first machined based clothing manufacturing company after gaining the successful patent.

Mass production

In 1832 Walter Hunt, an American inventor created the first lockstitch sewing machine, but he didn’t bother to patent it because he was worried it would cause mass unemployment. In 1844 the English inventor John Fisher designed the first machine which combined all the former ideas. This project was later improved on and built by Isaac Merritt Singer and Elias Howe, who also invented the zip closure.

 

(Elias Howe project)(Elias Howe)

In this period a small production of sewing machines started. In 1851 Singer invented the first machine with a horizontal arm and a pressure foot this is a system that keeps the fabric stable under the needle. These sewing machines were hand operated and they were quite difficult to use, for this reason the foot pedal was introduced later to free the hands. Many years later, the Singer company built the first machine with an electric motor and in 1975 it produced the first electronic machine in the world (Athena 2000).

(Isaac Merritt Singer)  (Singer machine)

In 1862 in Germany, Georg Michael Pfaff a brass instrument maker, finally managed  to construct  his first sewing machine. After seeing one at a fair many years earlier being completely fascinated by this new object, he decided to stop production of the musical instruments and dedicate himself entirely to this new project.

(Georg Michael Pfaff)(Pfaff machine)

Sewing machines in Italy

In Italy the first company that produced machines in this sector was Filotecnica Salmoiraghi in 1877. This distinguished brand is well known for the great quality of its products and also for its numerous innovations. For example it was the first company to produce a machine that could make buttonholes. Around 1920 another Italian company Virginio Rimoldi di Milano started to make the first sergers. These machines could cut the fabric whilist sewing. This was a new step for the industrial garment production, in fact, this new machine whilist decreasing the production time was also more accurate.

(serger Rimoldi)

The best known brand, which is in fact still active today in the sewing sector, is without a doubt Necchi. Vittorio Necchi, wanted to make a domestic sewing machine using for production his familys steel works in Pavia. He started with the  model “BD” and then followed up with the innovative “BU” a machine which was able to zig-zag. Making it, in 1939, one of the first machines capable of embroidery. Finally the “BF” and in 1950 the“Supernova” machines which are still today at the technological forefront. In 1956, the “Mirella” designed by Marcello Nizzoli, in addition to winning  various awards for its technical qualities was placed in the MOMA museum in New York for its innovative design.

(Necchi Mirella)

Sewing machines nowdays

Today, the modern machines, differ only in the use of electronics and a few pneumatically operated details which help to speed up the productivity. In our company we use a lot of modern machines but also many dated machines which have the ability to sew at the highest quality.

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Hand linking

The term hand linking indicates a phase of work in the textile world and is considered synonymous with high quality. This process is often used in the socks world to link the heel and the front part of the sock often called the “toe”.

The process of hand linking

Practically speaking, hand linking is the process used to attach the heel and the toe of the sock. It is very important not to overlap the fabric as this could cause irritation on the skin when worn. Likewise it is crucial not to make any holes in the fabric which could lead to laddering. A matter of fact only one missed stitch in this whole process can ruin the sock. At the end of the hand linking the result should be a completely seam free sock, in fact the appearance is that of a single piece.

The advantages

What are the great advantages of this long and delicate process? Certainly there is absolutely no possibility of any rubbing or irritation during use as there is in effect no join.  The seamless linking and the high quality of the fabric ensures maximum comfort.

The added value

To teach an operator the complete process of hand linking you need many years; during this long apprenticeship period inevitably many pairs of socks will be ruined. Finally the production increases to 25/30 dozens a day; if we compare this final yield to the 120 dozens produced daily by simply machine sewing the seams you can see immediately why there is a difference in both quality and price between the hand linked and the machine stitched socks. As a result of this complicated process, the duration and the comfort of hand linked socks is highly superior , furthermore our socks have both the heel and the toe re-enforced in natural fibers.

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Tutorial

 

Care of cashmere

For the best care of cashmere we recommend either hand washing or using the delicate cycle on the washing machine; cashmere loves water.

Hand washing tips

Always use warm water and a specialised detergent; let the garment soak for about 15 minutes. Obviously avoid rubbing or twisting the garment. Finally rinse with cold water.

 

Machine Washing – care of cashmere

Choose  the delicate cycle on the machine, this is a specialised program that washes wollen garments at a temperature of 30°, temeratures lower than 30° are useless because the dirt will not dissolve.

Attention!

At tempertures higher than 30° you risk ruining the fibers; always use small amounts of the specialised detergent and use the lowest spin cycle, lay the garment flat to dry; top tip: we recommend using a towel to remove the excess water.

Ironing and storage – care of cashmere

If the washing instructions have been correctly followed it should not be necessary to iron the garment; our advice for the best storage of cashmere items is to keep them inside out and at a low room temperature; this will avoid damaging the fibers, if you want to use steam keep it at a distance of 5 cm from the garment.

Top tips: store the garment inside out, protect it with a cotton cloth / bag  and if you must iron use a very low temeprature

Characteristics

The first time you wear your cashmere garment it is possible that it do something we call “pilling”; this is the formation of small irregular balls of cashmere,  known as pills; these pills are caused by rubbing and are non considered a sign of inferior quality cashmere but rather a result of wear. In fact after two or three washes the excess fluff will disappear and the fibers will re appear in all their original beauty; if is possible to manually remove these “pills” with the help of a soft brush or specialised comb.

Frequent washing is not a problem as cashmere loves water;  the Hircus goats ( from whom we collect the fibers) live in difficult conditions, in the open air often with a lot of rain; when they are wet the fibers get soft and expand but when they dry, they return to their original state;  following this characteristic your cashmere garment renews itself after every wash.

Conservation

In the warm seasons if not covered cashmere will attract moths, who love this precious fiber; to protect from moths  you can fill a hankerchief with lavender , cloves, mint and cinnamon, place this inside the folded cashmere garment before storing in the wardrobe; it is very important not to hang the cashmere garments but to store them folded.

Top tips: store your cashmere garments in a sealed box or packet; regularly spray your wardrobe with an anti-moths product.

Our cashmere products

T- shirt

Crew neck long sleeves

V – neck t-shirt

V – neck long sleeves

Longjohns

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Wikipedia

aElasticated cotton

Elasticated cotton is a fairly new fabric, made possible by the invention of elasticated microfibers. These  are added to the cotton thread in a ratio of between 4 and 10%. Originally, this material was used only in the production of sports garments. Now it has been utilised in the underwear world, predominantely in garments where a good fit is necessary.

The knitting of elasticated cotton

Elasticated cotton is a jersey fabric, which is made using circular knitting machines. At every single feeding point microfiber (Elastane) is added to the cotton thread. The result is a very compact, resistant and smooth fabric.

Charateristics of elasticated cotton

Elasticated cotton has the ability to stretch in both directions (width and length). It is soft but also resistent. These charateristics make it ideal for the production of boxers and briefs. Furthermore this fabric is fresh and ensures a very good fit. Due to its jersey structure, it has a natural tendency to twist, especially when low quality cotton is used. This twisting is caused when the thread tension and the machine rotation tension are not perfectly aligned.

How we avoid twisting in 4 stages

In order to eliminate this problem, here at Visconti di Angera we use only the highest quality cotton in which it is possible to choose the correct tension for our machines. This tension balance together with the addition of small percentage of Elastane, stabilises the fabric. Additionally to reduce this problem yet more , we use a 30 feeding point machine which has a low production capacity compared to the modern 90 feeding point machines. The lower the number of feeding points the slower the production rate but the higher the quality of the fabric. On top of this we add another stabilising treatment during the dying process, the fourth and final stage to guarantee the stability of the fabric, is a long period of rest before cutting.

Final result

The final resulting fabric is perfect to produce very fresh and durable garments with a perfect fit.

Our products made in elasticated cotton

Boxer

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Why use wool all year round

Why use wool? Because wool is an excellent insulator and is a very good shield both from the cold and from the heat. Since ancient times humans have utilized this fiber to protect themselves to the climate. From the coldest areas in Asia to the hottest zones in Africa, wool has always been a common denominator. Just think about the desert population (Tuareg) who wear woollen garments to help withstand the highest temperatures. His choice is not crazy, but is the result of millenary experience that has the roots in the beginning of time; in fact, wool has some charateristics which make it unique, below we can look at these in more detail.

The fiber charateristics

If we examine a woollen fiber under the microscope we will discover the resemblance to snakeskin. The external structure is in fact made by overlapping keratin scales , this is a fibrous protein substance, exactly as our hair. Beneath the external structure there is another strong layer, known as bricks and concrete,  because it resembles the structure of a wall. Some types of wool, have a very porous internal center under the outer layers, in this case the fiber is lighter and softer.

Wool is the most hygroscopic fiber, in the world, in fact it is able to absorb one third of its weight in vapour, without giving the feeling of being wet; this is because wool is composed of amino acids, which are able to trap the water molecules inside the fiber. When the weather is hot and humid or when a body sweats intensely, wool absorbs the humidity and releases it into the environment. This process in which wool absorbs sweat and transfers it to the outside is called thermoregulation.

In the same way a woollen garment when worn in cold weather, starts to absorb the body’s humidity increasing its own temperature by 2 – 3 degrees; this action delays for some hours the cooling of the fabric, allowing the body to adapt to the new temperature. Wool has a great capacity to absorb vapour but not water, (because water has a bigger molecular structure) so, wool is waterproof. This is due to the lanolin, (which is the natural grease which covers the wool fibers)

Insulation

Thermal insulation of fabric is due to the amount of air trapped between its fibers: the more air the bigger the insulation. The average amount of air trapped in non woollen fabrics is 75% in wool fabrics it increases to 90%. The scales of the wool fiber give it a certain roughness and its interstices increase the surface area enabling the wool to retain a large quanity of air. For this reason sheep remain indifferent to the heat but also to the cold and this explains why the desert people prefer to wear woollen garments. Wool possesses another very important quality it is almost fireproof. It is very difficult to burn and the flame does not spread easily, creating little heat and smoke. This explains why  wool is used to cover furniture in many planes, trains, coaches cinemas and public buildings.

Why use wool in sportswear

Recently, wool has been re-discovered in the world of sportswear, after the market  has been flooded for many years with synthetic fibers. In fact, given its natural characteristics ,wool is the ideal fabric  for garments for those who run or  take part in marathons. Apart from the above-mentioned chararcteric the thermoregulation wool has another strange very positive attribute unlike synthetic fibers it does not retain the smell, very beneficial if you have to wear the garment for a long period of time or consecutive days! Here are the reasons why use wool

Our products

Narrow strap vest

Wide strap vest

Crew neck t- shirt

Crew neck long sleeves

V – neck t-shirt

V – neck long sleeves

Longjohns

Sanforization – the history

The sanforization process was invented in 1930 by the American Sanford Lockwood Cluett, from whom it takes its name. Cluett was a businessman but also a great inventor, well known above all for this process. In fact he had over 200 patents, including the Cluett paper and the famous sextant a very important navigation instrument. Cluett, also developed agricultural machinery and furthermore he founded Cluett Peabody and Company Inc. in New York, a company which produced shirts.

The process of sanforization

Sanforization is a combined mechanical and thermal process; the machine forces the fabric to shrink in length by bringing the threads closer together, the process consist of a series of operations such as washing, pressing, drying and finally a chemical treatment.

This treatment improves the dimentional stability of the fabric, mostly  lengthwise but also slightly in the width. The obective is to keep the fabric stable,  this is achieved  because of the compactment of its fibers , their closeness prevents warping. The Sanforization process is used mainly on woven fabrics; likewise it can  be used on knitted fabrics such as viscose, micromodal and also some lightweight knitted fabrics. In this case, however the results are lower than the woven fabric,  due to the natural elasticity of the knit.

The Results of sanforization

The fabric after the completion of the Sanforization process should not have shrunk by more than 1 %; this result is fundamenatal to guarantee a  perfect fit and even after washing the woven garments should remain stable. This process is used above all for  high quality mens  shirts and classic boxers made in a woven fabric

More info

Wikipedia

Our products

Boxer 

Health and natural fabrics

It is important to understand that health and the use of natural fabrics go together. Wearing clothes made of natural fabrics is very important: garments are our second skin. Our skin is an organ which has two functions: It gives energy by absorbing air, light and heat, and it expells toxins. Together with other organs such as the kidneys, the intestin the liver and the lungs, it frees the body of unuseful waste materials; natural fibers allow your body to freely perform these processes.

Natural fibers

A long time ago, all the fabrics were natural, for example, cotton, wool and silk. These materials were and still are beneficial to our health and furthermore they do not pollute the environment. The world of fashion and clothing has completely changed since the invention of synthetic fibers, which are very resistent, easy to care for and economical.

Synthetic fibers

Most of the synthetic fibers are produced from petrol,  using a very complex chemical treatment they are transformed into threads. The resulting fibers are not very breathable, consequently they can create allergies when in contact with the skin. Synthetic fibers are not reactive like natural fibers, they trap heat and humidity creating a breeding ground for bacteria. It is a well known fact that after a few hours of wear synthetic fibers emit a very unpleasant smell, this is due to the deterioration of the bacteria trapped in the structure of the fiber. Another negative point , is the large amount of electrostatic charges they accumulate which our bodies struggle to dispose of. In the long run, this phenomenon damages the nervous system, causes stress and destroys the intestinal bacterial flora; definately not ideal conditions for our body and its well being.

Buying a natural fabric garment

All the items which come into contact with the skin, such as underwear, shirts, socks, sheets and blankets should be made in natural material. New born, babies, the sick, people who sweat a lot and those who have heavy manual jobs, should wear clothes made in natural material.

The benefits of natural fabrics

Cotton:

In warm temperatures, it keeps the body fresh, in contrast, whilist if left raw, the fluff insulates the body enabling it to be used in cold seasons. Cotton is a very resistent fiber which has an excellent capacity to absorb humidity, furthermore it can be washed at any temperature.

Silk:

Its the most prestigious natural fiber, which has incredible capacity to insulate and is completely hypoallergenic; soft to touch and delicate on the skin, it protects the body from electrostatic charges, its an ideal luxury item in moments of stress

Linen:

Very difficult to iron, but is better than cotton to keep the skin dry; it has a high absorbant capacity, furthermore it doesn’t irritate the skin but rather cares for it. Linen is hypoallergenic and more breathable than cotton, consequently ideal for those who have delicate skin.

Wool:

This fiber is perfect both in summer and in winter, in fact it keeps the body temperature constant, absorbs perspiration but remains dry to the touch; ideal for babies also those with circulation problems rheumatism, neck problems or arthrosis.

More info

Wikipedia

Made in Italy

Made in Italy brand can only be used on products made 100% in Italy.

Behind this brand there are very strict european laws regarding the origin of the products. According to the study made by Made-In-Country-Index (MICI) 2017 and published by Forbes magazine, on the 27/03/2017, the Made in Italy brand was in 7 th place in terms of  consumer reputation. In fact, the marketing research company KPMG, placed this brand 3rd in terms of popularity, with only Coca Cola e Visa ahead of it.

 

History

Historically, this brand has been used by Italian producers since the beginning of the 80’s; its function is to avoid cheap imitations of well known Italian products. Italian goods are generally associated with high quality, elegance and design. These charateristics created a great commercial advantage for Italy; clothing, food, furniture and cars are the 4  principal fields.

The Laws

The basic structure was established by the Madrid agreement of the 14th  April  1891 and confirmed in Italy by law number 676 in 1967. In particular, it established that the brand Made in Italy guarantees the Italian origin of the product. Since 1999 this brand has been endorsed by a lot of commercial associations, in 2009 there was a new copyright law that protects the brand.

The importance of made in Italy brand

This brand, has become very important for the italian export trade thanks to its worldwide reputation. In January 2014 the Google Cultural Institute together with the Italian Government and Chamber of Commerce, started an online project to promote the brand, using virtual showroom technology. The 1st of May 2016 the new European custom law became effective; this law established that in fields such as clothing and shoes, it is obbligatory to put a label showing where each phase of production was completed. Thanks to this law the origin of the goods is ensured; in fact the Made in Italy brand can only be used on products where 100% of production has been completed in Italy.

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Visconti di Angera

Our products

More info

Wikipedia