Category: Insights

Teasing – the history

Teasing is an age old technique; the practice of which we can trace back to the ancient Egyptians. This process creates different levels of dense fluff on the fabric, this fluff serves to make the fabric softer and warmer. Obviously the denser the fluff the warmer the fabric! In fact, this procedure increases the amount of air trapped between the fibers consequently forming a thermal insulation. In past times they used the dried flowers from the thistle plants, put in a straight lines until they formed a kind of brush with which they used to stroke the fabric

(Thistle flower)

(Brushes made of thistle flowers)

Thistles, were widespread in the mediterranean basin. Apart from being used in fabric production, they were also used in medicine, for their diuretic and cleansing qualities. In his reign, over most of western and central Europe, Charlemagne, cites this plant in the laws and orders given to the powerful religious institutions. It’s thanks to the hard work of the monks in the french territories, that by means of diffusion and selection, the thistle became a cultivated plant ideal for the teasing of wool. In 1800, the cultivation of thistles started in Italy and it was extensive, thanks to the growth of the textile industry. Due to the high cost of manual labour, necessary to collect the thistle flowers, the use of this plant declined, and it was replaced by modern machinery, with hooked rollers which did the teasing mechanically.

(thistle cultivation)

Modern Times

Today the teasing procedure is done on machines with brushes which have metal or plastic teeth. These machines consist of a rotating barrel onto which are fixed cylinders incorporating the brushes. These cylindrical brushes have teeth some of which go in the direction of the fabric and the remaining going in the contrary direction. By controlling the speed of the fabric in respect to the speed of the cylinders you can adjust the density of the fluff according to the use and type of final fabric required. The teasing can be made on both sides of the fabric to give a very soft hand. The process can be made both dry or wet. In the first case the hairs are more swollen and messy, in the second case the hairs are very thick but regulated, all going in the same direction.

(Teasing machine)

High quality teasing

In some cases, when we use very precious fibers such as cashmere or Merino wool, the teasing is still done with the natural thistle flowers. The flowers are fixed in a parallel line onto rollers that turn in the opposite direction to the fabric. In this case, thanks to the natural characteristics of the flower the final result is excellent. The thistles lift the hair and comb it, making the fabric soft and shiny. Natural teasing hides almost all of the weft and weave of the fabric, most importantly it gives a much finer result when compared to that produced mechanically, and has feel on the skin almost like velvet.

(Teasing)

(Result of teasing )

This technique, needs great skill, alot of attention must be given to the care of the thistle flower and also to controlling that its abrasive action does not ruin the fabric. This way of teasing, is much more expensive than the machine version, the reason being it is slower and you need to change all the thistle flowers after very 48 hours of production. Obviously, this process is used on only the highest class fibers, where you ae looking an absolute top quality finish.

(Replacing thistle flowers)

Our company uses this technique for the production of a brushed cotton fabric which makes our garments both warm and comfortable.

Our products

Crew neck short sleeves – Brushed cotton

V – neck short sleeves – Brushed cotton

Briefs – Early history

The origins of briefs can be found in the ancient Egyptian culture, in fact this population used to wear a triangle of fabric, called a pano, which was very similar to briefs. Obviously this garment didn’t have an elastic waistband but the fabric was wrapped in between the legs and knotted at the waist. We can see a similar garment in the Roman period, it was called subligaculum and it was worn under a tunic. This garment was popular with both gladiators and women.

(subligaculum)

In the middle ages, expecially among the Goths and Lombards there is evidence of the use of garments to cover the genital area. In the following periods expecially in the Renaissance women started to wear something that resembles our modern briefs. Around 1600 this kind of garment fell out of fashion and we need to wait until the end of 1800 to see its return.

Later history

In 1906 the briefs makes its first appearance in the modern shape we recognise today; but the sale of this garment is very low and was limited to a localised market. During 1935 the popoularity of this item started to spread drammatically and for the first time this garment was given an official name: BRIEFS. Coopers Inc.( an american based company), were the first to sell briefs with a front opening; they named this model Jockey; in a short period of time, this new garment became very popoular and flooded the American market.

In 1938, this garment arrived in Europe; the UK sold a thousand pairs a week; the real boom period began in 1948 and reached its peak in 1967, when France gave the permission to make the first TV advertisement featuring underwear. Development of briefs continued year by year;until in the 1960’s briefs changed their image and becomie a fashion item instead of a practical garment.

The function of briefs

The primary function of men’s briefs is to support, this fact makes them ideal for most sports; more than an underwear garment, they are an hygenical bareer between the body and the outer garments. Recently some doctors have criticised this product using the theory that the heating of the genital area could cause fertility problems for men. This theory however has not been proven and there are some studies which suggest the contrary. Anyway, it’s a good idea to choose the correct sizes and briefs made in natural fibers.

How they’re made

Briefs have an elastic waistband which can vary in height to satisfy every dressing requirement. The elastic can be visible or invisible that is to say it is covered in the same fabric as the briefs. In the same way the leg hole also has elastic, but here it is much softer in respect to that used on the waistband and serves to give lateral and gluteral restraint.

The cut of the front has been researched to give maxium ease and can be either open, closed or with a lateral opening to increase comfort. Usually they are made in cotton, but you can also find them made in synthetic fibers. For sure the syntheic fibers are more resistant and easier to wash but our opinion is that they are neither hygenic nor healthy.

(Closed briefs)

(Front open briefs)

Briefs collection

Our company, has a vast collection; our natural fabric choice, ranges from lisle cotton to pure silk. the Lisle cotton we make in house into either a jersey or a ribbed fabric. We produce these fabrics in different weights and consistencies to cover all seasons. Pure silk for those who want the ultimate luxury! Our collection includes many designs all with different heights and finishes. Obviously, we produce also briefs with openings, for those looking for a more pratical approach. Our company, prides itself on the quality of our products; the health of our clients in very important to us, so for this reason all of our briefs are made only in natural fibers.

Insights

Wikipedia

 

Our products

Collection

 

 

 

 

 

 

Vest – The origins

The vest is an historic garment, it takes his origins from the sport of rowing, where it was used by the athletes.  Legend says that the French nobleman Jean Des Fauches ripped the collar and sleeves away from his shirt in a moment of rage as they were annoying him, thus creating the first ever vest . In fact this garment is very comfortable allowing the maxium range of movement to the arms.

(Canottieri in azione)

Vests in Films

Vest has become famous thanks to some films where the leading actor wears this garment to give character to the role; the most famous ones being “On the Waterfront” starring Marlon Brando, the italian “Rocco e i suoi fratelli” starring Renato Salvatori, and finally “Die Hard” starring Bruce Willis. Without any doubt a dirty and ripped vest adds to the image of toughness, needed in these roles; this fact makes the vest very popular.

(Marlon Brando)

(Bruce Willis)

Recently famous people such as Barack Obama, or the italian politician Umberto Bossi have been photographed wearing a vest, which proves the popularity of this garment. Furthermore in the world of music, who doesn’t remember Freddie Mercury, lead singer of Queen on stage in his white vest. Despite its simplicity, this garment remains a fashion staple.

(Freddie Mercury)

How it’s made

The vest comes in many styles, for example the shoulder straps can be narrow or wide, also the neckline can have different depts, ranging from shallow to deep with many variations in between. In the same way the width of the armhole varies based on the needs of the wearer. The vest can be made in many different fabrics, allowing it to be worn in all seasons. Our company produces this item in several natural materials including pure wool, a wool and silk mix , pure silk,a cashmere and silk  mix and lisle cotton

Nearly all of our vests are made in a tubular fabric , and cut in a way that eliminates side seams guaranteeing maxium comfort. The most suitable fabric is knitted with ribs; this material has a natural elasticity which allows a better fit; in addition for the warm seasons, we produce also in a jersey fabric made of Lisle cotton yarn which is one of the lightest fabrics available; in this case the vest has side seams.

(Wide strap vest)

(Narrow strap vest)

(Wide strap details)

The evolution of the vest

Nowadays the classic vest remains one of the best selling garments ever, but despite this fact, there has been a style evolution. New models have transformed the look of this product, whilst managing to keep the original charateristics such as comfort and practicallity. With this in mind, our company has immediately designed two new models to face the needs of the market. The first new vest style is without sleeves and has a deep V-neck; this garment provides a perfect fit and is completely invisible under shirts; equally important the armhole is a close fit to allow a good absorption of perspiration.

(V-neck without sleeves)

The second vest design is a sleeveless crew neck; this model is ideal when worn under the shirt with a closed collar. In fact, the cut of the neck line is in designed for maximum comfort. Furthermore the armholes as on the previous model have a close fit to allow a good absorption of perspiration. Its shape ensures that is this garment is invisible under tailored shirts. Another advantage of these new designs is that the straps and armholes are cut to match the sleeve seams on shirts thus eliminating any possiblity to be seen.

(Sleeveless crew neck)

Insights

Wikipedia

Our products

Vests

 

 

 

Pyjamas -The history

The word pyjamas derives from the Persian word “پايجامه pāy-jāme” meaning clothing for the legs;  it refers to trousers which are very lightweight and wide cut, they were worn by both men and women. In the west however, this word refers to sleeping garments, comprised of a jacket or t-shirt on the top part of the body, whilst on the bottom half very loose comfortable trousers to cover the legs. The widespread use of pyjamas, can be credited to the English and their presence in the Middle East; infact, from 1600’s, when the British Colonists, returned home from Persia, bringing “the pyjamas”  with them, thus introducing this new garment into Europe. but, in fact, the widescale use began after 1870, in this period they were worn only by males.

How they’re made

Pyjamas can be worn in summer or winter; the sleeve and trouser length can be either long or short, depending on the season; also the weight of the fabric, can be chosen to suit the temperature. The most commonly used fiber is cotton; this fiber can be used to make many different fabrics including knitted jersey. Jersey is the perfect fabric for pyjamas, in fact, due to its natural elasticity, it is very comfortable and fresh. Obviously, pyjamas can be made in many other fabrics, for instance silk, for luxurious garments and linen which is ideal for the summer months.

The style of the pyjamas, changes following the type of fabric. If it’s a rigid fabric the jacket will resemble a shirt to guarantee an easy fit; the winter design, has a jacket with an open collar, which makes the pyjamas more elegant and protective, vice versa in summer the jacket is collarless making the garment fresher.

The pyjamas made in a knitted jersey fabric, are definitely more versatile, because they can be made in many different designs, thanks to the natural elasticity of this fabric. In fact, these types of pyjamas are often collarless, because these garments are more sporty than elegant. It is possible to choose, from V-neck, crew neck, polo neck and the open front cardigan. Obviously they are available in both short or long version as illustrated below.

Our Garments

Our company creates a wide selection of pyjamas made in Lisle cotton yarn jersey. The knitted fabric, is made in house to guarantee the highest quality possible. The thread, is already dyed for the maximum colour saturation and colour durability. Furthermore we use Egyptian cotton with a very fine title; this fact, allows us to produce a very lightweight fabric, which is very fresh. The mercerising treatment we use, gives the fabric great stability and a very small shrinkage percentage. The double twisted thread, used in the producion of our fabric, helps the garments to mantain the correct shape after washing.

More info

Wikipedia

Our pyjamas

Long

Short

 

The origin of the t-shirt

The origin of the t-shirt began a long long time ago, there is some evidence that the Etruscan people used to wear a garment resembling the t-shirt. Also in the renaissance period there is proof of a similar garment. In this era the t-shirt was considered a workers garment it was ideal for manual labour due to its lack of a collar. It was only in the 1800’s that the t-shirt started to gain popularity. For instance the sailors began to use it as a a part of their uniform, with the charateristic horizontal stripes.

(Sailors)

It was around the 40’s that the United States decided to use this garment as a part of their armed forces uniform. The American presence in Europe due to the war, contributed to spread the t-shirt all around the continent. In this period the t-shirt continued to be a workers garment. We have to wait until the 50’s to see the changing role of the t-shirt. In these years it makes its first appearances as a fashion item and underwear for the general population. Its name comes from its shape which looks like the letter T.

(t-shirt)

The T-Shirt and the cinema

In the late 50’s the wearing of the t-shirt was very widespread, mainly thanks to the popularity of the cinema. Many of the filmmakers favoured this item of clothing using the wearing of this garment to add character to their controversial leading roles. Subsequently a new way to wear the t-shirt was born and adopted by the younger generation. The two most iconic images are James Dean in the film “Rebel without a cause” and Marlon Brando in “A streetcar named desire” .

(James Dean and Marlon Brando)

The American cinema continued to use this item in its films. In the 70’s for example how can we not talk about “American Graffiti” a film directed and co-written  by George Lucas, where the leading actor wears a white t-shirt accesorized with a packet of camel cigarettes stored in the rolled up sleeve. Once again the t-shirt worn over the blue jeans became a symbol and a kind of uniform for the youth.

(American Graffiti cult film 70’s)

From the 80’s onwards the t-shirt became used for publicity purposes. In fact we start to see the first printed t-shirts, the themes are many and wide ranging; from political statements to souvenir holiday destinations and so it continues. The image of the t-shirt changed, it became a cult object and gift idea. Following this concept even the marketing of the t-shirt changes; the sales became emotional not practical. Merchandising is born! The well known brands, famous rock bands and big american chains, (for example Hard Rock Cafè), created their exclusive designs. These became collector items also serving to spread the brand name. The t-shirt was given a new lease of life with the youth embracing this developement by stamping their messages on it.

(Surfer)

(Hard rock cafè)

How it’s made

This garment can be made in many different fabrics, depending on its use and the final destination. For sure the most commonly used fiber is cotton but also wool and prestigious textiles like cashmere and silk can be used. Our company produces a wide selection of t-shirts to meet every need in the world of underwear; our style is classic and our garments are designed to fit the body and be worn under a shirt or a jumper without any constriction and maximum attention to comfort. There are many different models, including the crew neck, the V neck.

For the winter season we produce underwear in pure Merino wool, in silk, in cashmere and silk, and other mixes of these fibers; for this season we have a long sleeve option to add protection for the arms against the cold. Obviously in our collection we include the well known cotton t-shirts but in our case we have upgraded the quality by using Lisle cotton yarn, which is fresher and softer compared to normal cotton; these charateristics are fundamental for our luxurious underwear.

More info

wikipedia

Our products

T-shirts

Child labour

I’m writing this article about child labour with disgust, but with the hope that it will help readers to understand that the continuos search for a cheaper price creates a slave labour market. In the XXI century, the slaves are the children from the poorest families.This terrible practice has ancient roots, in fact the procedure started long time ago but sadly continues into present times. Originally children were employed in agricoulture and as sheperds.

(Young labourer)

The History of child labour

The first confirmed facts we have about child labour date from the Industrial Revolution. Fabric production and fashion are two areas that definately gave a boost to this phenomen. Certainly in that era the spinning and textile mills had a very high need for manual labour at a low cost, moreover children with their small hands were perfect to thread and work the machines. Due to their tender age they were very easy to exploit and force into slavery. It’s hard to imagine but their daily shift was generally 15 working hours and the pay was so low that it did not even cover the cost of their food. Similary the use of child labour was widespread in the mines. This enviroment with the dangerous working conditions and malnutrition was responsible for the highest number of infant deaths.

(Child labour – spinning mill)

(Child labour – textile mill)

(Young miners)

In Europe, this practice continued in a very particular way; the famous Verdingkinder or child slaves were used in Germany until 1920 and Switzerland until 1980. These children were removed from the poorest families (or very often illegitimate) and given to other families where they were exploited and often badly treated. It is only in recent times that Switzerland has tried to remedy this horror trying to compensate the survivors of this madness. Books have been written about these terrible events; the most famous being ” Resli il piccolo bracciante” which tells the story of a Swiss boy, who was sent away to become a servant. As the book reveals he was treated like a slave.

(Verdingkinder)

Today

In the current state of affairs it is estimated that there are aproximately 250 million working children in the world. This appalling figure includes not only the developing areas such as Africa, Asia, South America and East Europe but also the industrialized countries. As you can expect the use of child labour can still be found  in the agricultural sector , were they are used as manual labourers, but sadly also in the production process of famous multi national companies; mainly in the fields of sporting goods such as balls, trainers, and even clothing. Child labour creates a vicious circle, because of the children who work can’t go to school and the result they remain illitterate; as a result they are easily manipulated and furthermore exploited until death.

Very important is the example of Iqbal Masih, a Pakistani boy who rebelled against child slavery and he became the symbol of the fight against child labour. After his death, in 1995 which happened in a obscure way, probably endorsed by the Pakistani carpet mafia, Iqbal became a hero; this fact brought about stricter controls by the Pakistani authorities regarding the use of child labour.

How many and where?

Even though Italy abolished child labour in 1967, it seems there are still  roughly 140.000 child labours aged between 7 and 14 years old working illegally. Here is a list of countries where this problem has reached biblic proportions.

• India 55-60 million
• China tens of millions
• Pakistan 8 million
• Bangladesh 15 million
• Thailand 5 million
• Nigeria 10 million
• Brasil 7 million
• Egypt 1,4 million (government estimate)
• Philippines 5,7 million

Visconti di Angera

Our company condemns this practice, and works in the respect of Italian laws in the matter of labour. I hope that this article, will help in the fight against the child labour, and i invite all the consumers including myself, to consider ethical questions before buying any product. Researching where and by whom a product is made will certainly help to reduce this terrible practice. Recently we have seen a great movement towards the protection of animals, for instance the war against fur; the results have been incredible. What I haven’t seen is the same fight for the rights of these poor children.

Paolo Carletto

 

 

The meaning of quality – The Origins

The word quality derives from the latin word “qualitas” which comes from qualis, quale. According to philosophy it refers to the description of one or more permanent properties in reference to an entity. Now without immersing ourselves too much in the world of Aristotle, Cicerone and Cartesio, we use the word in more practical terms to sum up the skills or strengths of a product or person. In fact, quality is what distinguishes one thing from another. Each object or person has thier own strengths or skills. These qualities must be constant, meaning repeated in the same way at different times and in different situations. For example wool has an insulating quality, infact this property insolates not only from the cold but also from the heat

(Our basic concept)

Quality in the world of underwear

In the production phase, where the primary materials are transformed into a finished garment, the quality is defined with an added value which is that the garments satisfy the needs of the consumers. Take for example a cotton tee-shirt, we must take into account the type of primary material and how it has been worked and finished. While its true that cotton is the primary material it is also true that there are many different types of this fiber, all of which have different attributes, according to the place of origin, the processes it has been subject to and finally the type of fabric produced.

(Egyptian cotton)

Keeping in mind these factors, it is clear that if a thick and rough cotton is used  instead of  Lisle cotton yarn, the result on the skin would be very different. Given that quality is tied to the perception that we have of a product, it goes without saying that the second marker the tactile sensation, will also be very different; definitely more pleaseing on the skin. In the same way that a woollen jumper made in cashmere will certainly be more pleasant than a jumper made of the much rougher Shetland wool.  A badly made pattern can also effect comfort and wearability of the final garment.

(Hand made garments)

The importance of manufacturing.

For Visconti di Angera, which makes high quality it’s trademark it is very important that all processes are completed to the highest level. Starting from the choice of primary material, to the following  production processes. We work in the same very accurate way, the phases are slow; our circular machines produce very little fabric daily but the result is excellent. In fact it is very rare that things made quickly are perfect.

(Knitting department)

Our patterns are very precise thanks to the CAD system which allows us to develop symmetrical forms. The sewing is done by hand with natural fibers, this avoids allergies and in many cases the seams are flat, with the aim of providing  maxium comfort. Also the treatments of the fabrics are done observing the time necessary to guarantee the best results and according to Italian law, which enforces high standards for the protection of the customer. Quality which can be found in each small detail combines to make a prestigious  garment with no aspect overlooked. Often, in cheap garments, the dyeing is made with chemical agents forebidden in Italy such as formaldehyde which is cancinogenic.

(Patterns – C.A.D)

(treatment room)

The Result

All these factors combine to give excellent results. Italy is famous for its high quality products, including fashion, sports cars, and food . Can you imagine a Ferrari that is made in China? or Parmesan cheese made in Pakistan? No, the idea in unimaginable. To make high quality products you need competence, precision, excellent primary materials, tradition and time…. lots and lots  of time. This is how you produce high quality products and the made in italy label, which we are qualified to use is an assurance of this. You will definitely pay a higher price but you will get value in terms of durability and product satisfaction. It is undeniable that high quality products keep their attributes over time which is an economic adavntage not to be overlooked.

 

 

 

 

 

Bespoke underwear

When you talk about large sizes or made to measure, we immediately think about garments like jackets, shirts, trousers and so on. Don’t forget that underwear also is part of this exclusive world. The idea is to create bespoke underwear, to give to everyone the opportunity to wear high quality garments made in Italy. Even though, it’s true that most designers have started to produce non standard sizes, it’s also true that this trend does not extend to top quality bespoke underwear.

(bespoke pattern)

The concept of bespoke underwear

Visconti di Angera, creates bespoke or made to measure underwear we are able to due this due to the fact that we have in house production;  our aim is to produce a garment which adapts to the person and not the contrary.

We are living in a pretty and perfect world; the images under our eyes are of men and women who are perfect like statues, often this is the result of long  work on the computer modifying all the defects, the legs get elongated, the body sculptured and all the wrinkles erased. These avatars don’t exist, the reality is normal men and women who are all different shapes and sizes and their bodies do not generally conform to the fashion trend which wants everybody to be fit, tall and pretty. It is not a sin to be unfit and these people should not be forced to wear lower quality garments. Visconti di Angera has decided to meet this need in the market we produce top quality garments and we have the ability to adapt our fiting to the person and not vice versa.

 

Tailoring

This is our aim: alongside our basic line, we have created a new made to measure production, you provide us with your measurements and we will design for you  confortable, high quality underwear with a perfect fit. For example, the young generation are generally taller, in this case they will need longer t-shirts. We can easily add the required centimetres to the garment lenght. It is clear that there are also people who are below average height, so we are also able to produce shorter lenght t-shirts; our production system enables us to satisfy all requirements; in one word, tailored underwear.

The possibilities

We can use the concept of tailored underwear in 3 different ways, according to the need:

Special gaments: In this case we modify a basic garment; for example we can elongate or shorten the body or the sleeves of an existing model. This solution is certainly the fastest and cheapest because we don’t need to produce a new pattern.

Made to Measure garments: Exactly as the words say, in this case we make a new pattern based on the measurements the client provides. The variations here are limitless, the outcome is a unique garment, exactly like a bespoke suit. The pattern once created is stored enabling you to re-order at any time.

Large sizes: in this area we put together the two former points, in fact we can start from a basic garment in size XL and we can grade this up without any limits; or we can design a new pattern following the client’s size and shape. If the client has an existing garment, we can use this to create a new pattern and reproduce the garment. This sample has to be shipped to our company where we can digitalise using the CAD system. After that we will create a sample garment which will be shipped to you to test. Once confirmed we will start the production.

How to start

If you would like bespoke underwear, please contact the company by phone or email. Here our qualified personel will explain how to proceed, which measuremnts we require and how you should take them. They can also provide you with a quote and an estimate on the production time. If you prefer you can visit our factory in the opening hours or call to make a private appointment.

Maglificio Corona S.r.l.

Via Mario Greppi, 109

21021 Angera (VA)

Tel. +39 0331 960200 – (Opening hours: Mon-Fri 8.00-12.00 13.30-18.00)

E-mail: info@visconidi angera.com

Link a Google Maps

 

 

 

 

 

Underwear – the history of

Underwear has ancient roots, we can say that the use of underwear began in Egypt around 1550 B.C. In fact, the first evidence found of undergarments is relatet to this period. The Egyptians, even though they produced wool and cotton, prefered to use linen, for their undergarments because to them linen had a religious significance. With this fiber, they created a very lightweight and transparent fabric, which they wore close to the body. The poor men’s garment was called pano. It was a kind of loincloth, made by a simple rectangle of fabric wrapped around the hips. Instead, the upper class, for example pharaons, princes and military commanders used to wear a different garment called schentis. The principal charateristic of this garment was the detailed pleating.

(pano)          (schentis)

In the following centuries, the Sumerian and Babylonian Assyrian cultures (1100 to 600 B. C.) used to wear just a simple tunic called Kandis. This was worn directly against the skin without any other sub layer. We have to wait until the fifth century B.C. before we find anything resembling underwear as we know it today. The Persians, in fact used anaxyrides, which were close fitting along the legs and often worn together with a bodice which covered the arms, over these garments they wore a tunic.

(anaxyrides)

From the Romans to the Middle Ages

The Roman civilazation summarizes all of the previos cultures. Their garments consisted of tunics and capes, but here are the beginnings of garments that we can define as underwear. The Romans wore an inner or undertunic called a subucula and also a subligaculum, this garment could be considered the first version of our modern day slip or boxers. It was basically a loincloth, it consisited of a piece of fabric which passed between the thighs and was fastened at the waist with string. It was worn by both men and woman and in particular  it was part of the dress of gladiators and athletes.

(subligaculum)

When the Roman Empire divided into two parts, the Western empire with Rome as its capital and the Eastern empire with its capital Byzantium (Constantinopole) we witnessed the fall of the first and the flourishing of the second for more that a millennium. In this period the Byzantium garments , which were in fact similar to the romans but richer in their decoration, were fashionable, underwear played a minor role with a type of longjohns  and the subligaculum worn under tunics.

The Middle Ages

Towards the end on the eighth century, half way through the middles ages, their was an historical turning point, The Holy Roman Empire was restored thanks to the French King Charlemagne. The Latin and the German populations were united. But in Italy this created the first political divide. There were many territorities dominated by the Lombards and the Byzantines. Due to the fact that they resisted the Barbaric invasion, they considered themselves against Charlemagne. In this period there are traces of the use of subligaculum and longjohns by the Lombards. The longjohns evolved and by now were tighter and often with a sole under the foot to fulfill the function of footwear. The Goths (originally from East Germany) were the first to use nightshirts and garments which covered the genital area.

(IX century)

The Renaissance

In the XVI century people began to use garments which we can recognise as underwear. Catherine de’ Medici started to use an article of clothing which we can consider to be the first knickers. These were worn under dresses and remained in fashion for about 100 years. Towards the end of XVII century as they became unpopular with the general public as they were now considered prostitutes clothing.

Underwear as we know it

It is only in the XIX century, that the story of underwear really begins. Knickers once again became a part of women wardrobe. These knickers were a type of longjohns and they were known as tubes of decency and it was forbidden to name them in public. Subsequently the women’s underwear began to be decorated with lace and embroidery and high quality fabrics were used. At the end of this century, knickers became shorter and shorter and more erotic. We can see an example of this in the famous Can can dance, where the dancers show them to the public.

(can can)

Modern time

From about 1920, knickers became smaller and smaller and the first bra was created. Men wore boxers made in cotton fabric; around 1940 the first men’s slip were created. In the 1960’s we can see the concept of modern underwear; and big industrial production started. The underwear became fashionable and trendy, often somthing to be shown; we can consider it a fashion under the dress.

 

Title of yarn

What is the title of yarn? It is the size of the dimension of the thread, that determines the thickness and consequently the quality of the fiber. Logically it shoud be the size of the diameter of the thread, but this is only possible for metal threads which are not deformable and have a constant section. So, how can we detrmine the diameter of a deformable and non constant section thread? Simple: we can use units that are easy to measure such as the length and weight. We can proceed in two ways: weight per lenght unit or viceversa; length per unit of weight; this type of measurement is called title.

(Yarn)

Obviously, one of the two units has to be fixed, meanwhile the other one is variable. let’s get into the specifics; if it’s considered as a title, the weight relates to a fixed length, it is clear that the weight increases as the diameter of yarn increases; so the bigger the title the larger the thread diameter. (for example, 1000 yards of sewing machine thread is lighter than 1000 yards of rope). Viceversa, if we use as a title the length necessary to reach a certain weight, it’s obvious that the lenght increases when the thread diameter decreases. Consequently, the higher the title the thinner the thread ( to get one pound weight we need more sewing machine thread than rope.)

Consequently, the title of yarn is a number that indicates the thickness, in proportion to the thread section. There are two fondamental criteria for the measurement of yarn: direct and indirect. In the direct system, the title is proportional to the size of thread.

(Machine to determine the length and the weight of the yarn)

how to determine the title of yarn

Direct title 

1 Tex = 1 gram each km of yarn

1 Decitex (dtex) = 1 gram each 10 km of yarn (submultiple of Tex)

Denier (Td o den) = 1 gram each 9 km of Yarn

1 (Ts) = 1 pound each 14.400 Yard of yarn.

Indirect title or number 

Nm: indicates how many skein of yarn (1000 metres long) there are in 1 kg; it’s used for wool.

Nk: indicates how many metres of yarn there are in 1 kg.; it’s used for yarn and wool waste

Ne: indicates how many skein of yarn (840 yards) there are in 1 pound.

Nl:  indicates how many skein of yarn (300 yards) there are in 1 pound.

Nw: indicates how many skein of yarn (560 yards) there are in 1 pound.

Ns: indicates how many skein of yarn (256 yards) there are in 1 pound

Insights

Wikipedia