Category: Insights

Artificial Fibers

Artificial fibers are derived from renewable raw materials, such as wood cellulose, milk proteins (casein), and cotton linters. They resemble natural fibers in appearance and quality. The major advantage of these fibers is that they can be custom-made for their intended uses. Depending on the need, there are opaque or shiny fibers. They can be rigid, elastic, rough, or soft. Artificial fibers are created through chemical reactions that alter natural fibers. Depending on the starting material and the reagent used, various types of fibers can be produced.

Cotton Linters

Artificial fibers are often thought to cause bad odors, allergies, and discomfort. Some believe they are harmful to health and the environment. None of this is true! In fact, due to their development, artificial fibers can prevent, reduce, and often solve these issues.

History

The first attempts to create artificial fibers date back to 1884 when Count De Chardonnet succeeded in creating a thread with a bit of nitrocellulose through an extrusion process. This artificial silk was named Rayon and immediately encountered two problems:

1. It was dangerous, as it burned easily.
2. It was more expensive than natural silk.

In 1890, cuprammonium Rayon was created, which is almost identical to silk in shine and feel. In Italy, the first artificial silk company was established in 1920 by the SNIA, “Società di Navigazione Italo Americana,” a shipping company that operated maritime transport between Italy and the United States. As the shipping market changed, SNIA decided to invest in industrial activities. Three companies came under SNIA’s control:

• Società Viscosa di Pavia (1920)
• Italiana Fabbriche Viscosa di Venaria (1920)
• Italiana Seta Artificiale di Cesano Maderno (1921)(SNIA – Artificial fibers)

The Boom

The growth phase continued in 1925 with the construction of a new plant in Torino Stura. In 1927, SNIA Viscosa took control of the Artificial Silk Group with plants in Varedo and Magenta. Annual Rayon production increased from 500,000 kg in 1920 to over 9.5 million kg during the Great Depression of 1929.

In the same years, the artificial fibers industry developed in Châtillon, in the Aosta Valley, due to the proximity of hydroelectric power plants, with facilities also in Ivrea and Vercelli (Società Soie de Châtillon). An acetate factory was established in Pallanza, Rhodiaseta, which later became Rhodiatoce (with Rhône-Poulenc patents). Another plant was set up in Gozzano (Novara) using the cuprammonium process with cellulose (cotton linters) from the Bemberg company. Finally, in Pizzighettone (Cremona), corden was produced, a fiber used for tire fabrics.

Types of Artificial Fibers

Rayon is the first artificial fiber, but over the years, driven by eco-sustainability, many others have been created. Here is a list of these new materials:

• Lanital
•  Lyocell
•  Modal
•  Viscose

All these fibers are similar, except for Lanital, which is derived from milk proteins. It is very similar to wool, sharing many qualities such as insulation, softness, and feel. Additionally, it is less attractive to moths. Artificial fibers can be divided based on their origin:

•  Cellulosic (from wood)
•  Protein-based (from milk and corn proteins)
•  Alginic (from algae)

Pima Cotton – The Gold of Peru

Pima cotton is known as the gold of Peru for its high quality. This cotton is named after the Pima tribe, a group of Native Americans who were the first to cultivate the plant in the United States. The origins of this cotton are in Peru. Unlike the more common cotton, which is of the species Gossypium hirsutum, Pima cotton is of the Gossypium Barbadense variety. Today, it is cultivated not only in Peru but also in the southwestern United States and Australia.

Qualities of Pima Cotton

Pima cotton is an extra-long staple cotton. It has a natural sheen, is highly resistant to wear and pilling, and has great absorbency. In many ways, it resembles Egyptian cotton but has a softer feel. Fabrics made from Pima are very soft and compact due to the quality of the fiber. Consequently, garments are very long-lasting, comfortable, and cool. Since it is still hand-harvested today, the quality is above average. In fact, during the harvesting process, skilled hands remove impurities for greater fiber purity. The Pima harvest is done in three stages, following the plant’s blooming. It starts from the lower branches (where the best bolls are) and proceeds to the upper branches.

Supima Brand

Jesse Curlee is the president of Supima, an acronym for Superior Pima. The consortium unites American producers of the world’s best cotton, superior Pima. Over time, Supima has become a true brand. It identifies a very soft cotton, brilliant white even in its raw state, but super-resistant. Pima is produced only in certain areas scattered across California, Arizona, New Mexico, and Texas. Supima consortium has also created the Supima Award, a prize established to find new designers capable of best using this fiber. The goal is to bring prestige to the brand. The most famous brand associated with this type of cotton is Brooks Brothers. They have always used it for their famous shirts, worn by celebrities from the cinema and politics, including President Obama.

The Brooks Brothers brand is now owned by Claudio Del Vecchio, son of Leonardo, the head of Luxottica. Pima cotton and raw materials are the strategic key to being a global brand. Claudio Del Vecchio has also stated that Pima cotton is luxurious, but also practical, strong, and durable. It is that extra something that customers expect.

Pima Yarns

From such a precious and long fiber, double-twisted yarns are made, which are either mercerized or left natural, depending on the intended use. The yarn counts are very fine, such as Ne 100/2, up to Ne 120/2. In some cases, it can reach a count of Ne 180/2, which is used for high-end shirting fabrics.

The Vicuña – The Fleece of the Gods

The Vicuña, is a camelid that lives in the Andes, whose wool was used by the Incas to weave the garments of their kings; hence the nickname “Fleece of the Gods.” This people cared for and considered this rare animal sacred. It was almost exterminated along with the Incas with the arrival of the Spanish conquistadors. In the ’60s/’70s, the first actions to protect and repopulate the Vicuña began. In fact, in Washington in 1976, it was listed as an endangered species and thus was given the highest protection. This action, promoted by the UN international convention, ended the slaughter and exploitation. Today, thanks to these control measures, this animal has reached a population of about 180,000 individuals.

(Vicuña)

The Value of the Vicuña

The Vicuña has qualities that are nothing short of unique in nature. In fact, its fiber has a diameter of 12 µm and is softer, finer, and shinier than Cashmere, which measures 15 µm. Fabrics made from this fiber are so soft that they make Cashmere feel rough in comparison. This is why it is called the Fleece of the Gods. Fabrics made from this fiber are very warm and shiny and almost seem to contain silk.

Another reason for its value is the small amount of wool obtained from each animal. Only 250 grams every two years! In fact, Vicuña shearing is done only by hand, in biennial cycles, and no more than 5 times in the lifetime of each animal. This is done to respect the animal and its natural molting cycles.

For this reason, the price of raw wool is over $400 per kg and reaches about $2000 per kg for yarn ready for weaving. Needless to say, these prices place it in the realm of extreme luxury.

Usage

Due to the price of Vicuña and the rarity of this fiber, its use is confined to super-luxury items, such as tailored coats and jackets and scarves. Only a few companies can afford to purchase this fiber. Among these are Piacenza and Loro Piana. The latter has initiated the repopulation of the Vicuña in agreement with the Peruvian government. In fact, a private reserve called “Reserva Dr. Franco Loro Piana” was established. Here, the Vicuña can live in the wild, safe from poachers and uncontrolled exploitation. A great example of eco-sustainability that does Italy proud!

Let me introduce myself, my name is Paolo Carletto

People often ask: “Who is behind a company? What do they look like?” So, let me introduce myself. My name is Paolo Carletto.(Paolo)

I was born in December 1964 in a town near Milan. Mine was a typical family, where nothing was missing except the superfluous. Everything we had was the result of hard work. My first life lesson was: “Paolo, you want something? Roll up your sleeves and go to work! Only this way will you understand the value of things and take proper care of them.” This phrase is embedded in me as if it were tattooed on my heart. Today, I appreciate and respect everything that life and work give me. In 1977, the year my father Vittorio changed careers and began the adventure of this company, I spent the summer working with him on circular machines (I probably caused more trouble than good). The goal was to save up to fulfill my dream: a motocross bike.(My Aprilia 50)

Me and the world of work

After the usual accounting studies (in those years you were either an accountant or a surveyor, there was no other way!), I was undecided whether to go to university or work at the company; I opted for the latter. From that moment, I officially entered the world of work. Those were incredible and hectic years. Everything was done by hand: orders, product sheets, calculations for bill of materials. Accounting was done with desktop calculators, and statistics required days and days of work and many sheets of paper. Until one day, it arrived, the computer! An Olivetti M 20.

(The infernal machine)

It was not love at first sight, also because it was all about: “insert disk A, remove disk B, reinsert disk A,” which made the work very complex, but in the end, I was struck by the “potential” of this new tool. I remember spending days and nights working with Gianluca, a Genoese technician, who came to Milan looking for work. He was my mentor in the dark forest of informatics.

Military Service

My idyll with the infernal machine was short; shortly after, I received the fateful “postcard” for military service. In 1985, while Milan was experiencing the snowfall of the century, I left for the service; Palmanova del Friuli, a stone’s throw from Gradisca d’Isonzo, where my father spent his childhood; a return to the origins, great!

(Palmanova del Friuli)

Needless to say, that year I got into more trouble than Bertoldo. I have a jovial and open character, and the barracks was a theater; imagine living in a farce. The name Paolo Carletto was always the first on the punishment chart! When I wasn’t driving the tank on the Friulian riverbeds, I spent my time inventing some prank to play. I must say it was a very light and fun period. However, I learned two things in that world of “yes sir”: to be responsible for all my actions and to quickly resolve any situation I found myself facing, relying only on myself. That year in the barracks was a real life lesson.

Paolo’s Family

The first major turning point in my life came in 1991. We moved everything from Milan to Angera, an ancient town on Lake Maggiore. My life changed, I was catapulted into a new social and work dimension. New spaces, new friends, and a new work environment. It didn’t take me long to adapt, and soon I integrated well into the new reality; so well that shortly after, I met the woman who would become first my partner and then my wife. In 2000, Jacopo was born, and two years later, Daniele, nicknamed “Dede.” My children are my true joys, the source of energy that never lets me give up. The reason why every day I tell myself that life is beautiful!

(Jacopo and Daniele)

(Traveling with the boys)

My Passions

What do I like? Make yourselves comfortable; the list is long! I have many passions, but the one for motorcycles and engines is perhaps the greatest. After my first Aprilia 50, I’ve always had a bike in my garage. Over the years, I’ve started to love “vintage” bikes (maybe because I’ve become “vintage” too) and I’ve taken up restoring rusty relics. I love English sports cars, and in 2005 I was the first and only one in Italy to build a kit car; a Lotus 7. In winter, it’s always disassembled and constantly evolving; let’s say it’s a bit like Penelope’s canvas. The place of honor in the list of “material” passions goes to watches; since I love being punctual, I always have a watch on my wrist.

(Lotus 7)

(Lotus 7 on the track)

(Omega 321 Speedmaster)

I love outdoor sports, from trekking to sailing, while in winter, I don’t disdain the gym and snowshoeing. Recently, I started practicing Yoga, and I must say it’s becoming a healthy passion, both for the body and mind (Ashtanga Yoga, I recommend it!). Music also plays an important role in my life; it is the soundtrack of my days; where I am, there is music! Apart from some genres I just don’t understand (the ones my kids listen to, for example), I like everything, from Rock to blues to classical music, which often relaxes me while reading a good book.

(Paolo with snowshoes)

(Regatta on the lake)

Paolo the Nomad

“There is no man more complete than the one who has traveled, who has changed the shape of his thoughts and his life twenty times.”
(Alphonse de Lamartine)

Traveling is something I can’t do without; I consider myself a nomad, not a tourist. Exploring new cultures and places is nourishment for the mind and soul. Over the years, I have traveled a lot, trying to detach from my feather bed to put my feet on the granite of the earth. The most beautiful and shocking experience I had was in Africa. For two years in a row, I went to the black continent to deliver medicines to the poorest areas or where there had been war. Mali, Burkina Faso, Niger, and Chad are the countries that changed me deeply; they made me reconsider my way of living, my “needs,” and give the right value to things.

(Tibesti Desert – Chad)

(Tibesti Desert – Chad)

My Projects

“The second place is just the first of the losers.”
(Colin Chapman)

This is the motto that best describes me; I am a restless soul, and despite Yoga, inner peace is far from becoming a reality. So I always have projects to dedicate myself to. On the work front, I am updating the company’s setup based on new online sales methods and new marketing strategies. In fact, for over five years, I have also been studying SEO dynamics, digital marketing, Adwords algorithms, and lastly, semiotics. I am precise and love keeping up with the times!

On a personal level, however, I would like to graduate in communication sciences; since I didn’t do it when I was young, I would like to do it now. I just need to find the time to fit everything in, but I’m working on it!

Viscose – The Artificial Silk

Viscose, also known as artificial silk, is a fiber obtained from cellulose. It’s important to clarify the difference between artificial and synthetic, as these terms are often confused.

• Artificial:Obtained through human ingenuity. It starts from a natural product and transforms it into a new product. In the case of viscose, it starts from cellulose (wood pulp or cotton linters). The result is similar to natural fibers. The myth that these fibers produce bad odors, cause health problems, and are uncomfortable is untrue! Viscose is a fabric that does not cause allergies.
• Synthetic: Obtained from various polymers derived from chemical synthesis. These fibers do not start from a natural base but from chemical compounds obtained in the laboratory.

To make viscose, cellulose is treated with a caustic soda bath, then carbon disulfide is added. The resulting colloidal solution is then extruded into thin threads. The next step is to wind these threads onto a spool, ready to be washed and dried.

A Bit of History

French chemist Count Hilaire Bernigaud de Chardonnet created viscose in 1883. It was presented at the Paris Expo in 1891. English chemists Charles Cross, Edward Bevan, and Clayton Beadle obtained the patent for industrial production in 1902. In 1906, the patent was sold to Samuel Courtauld, who began large-scale production of viscose. Its first name was “artificial silk,” but in 1924 it was called Rayon. The name viscose comes from the fact that, in its liquid state, this material is very fluid, that is, viscous.

The Use of Viscose

Viscose is one of the most widely used fibers in fashion. Due to its quality and properties, it is ideal for making high-quality garments. In fact, viscose resists washing, does not deform, breathes perfectly, does not leave bad odors, and does not cause skin allergies. Garments made from this material range from outerwear to underwear. In this case, viscose is often mixed with elastane in doses ranging from 6 to 10%. This process enhances the fit and comfort. Since it doesn’t wrinkle and is very shiny, it is often combined with wool or cotton to create high-quality fabrics.

Viscose and High Fashion

Fashion designer Stella McCartney has always been very environmentally conscious. During Climate Week 2016, she released the first video of the Deforestation Series. The theme is the destruction of forests, aiming to reduce the environmental impact created by fashion. It should be noted that, although it is made artificially, viscose originates from trees. Stella McCartney uses only eco-friendly viscose and ensures that Swedish forests are always in balance. In this way, she has raised awareness among major fashion names and laid the foundation for a new work ethic.

How to Wash It?

Viscose should be hand-washed in water at 30°C. It is advisable to use liquid detergent for delicate garments and let it soak. Avoid wringing or maneuvers that could damage the fiber. In some cases (always read the label instructions), it can be machine-washed. In this case, it’s better to use a laundry bag to protect the garment. Finally, blot excess water and dry flat, away from heat sources and direct light.

Micromodal

Micromodal is a very fine artificial fiber derived from cellulose. It is 40 times finer than a human hair, and 10,000 meters of this fiber weigh less than 1 gram. Fabrics made from micromodal have qualities far superior to cotton. They are stronger and do not fray, shrink less, and have more solid and vibrant colors. To the touch, they are smooth, glossy, and soft, and when washed in hard water, they are more resistant to retaining it within the fibers. As a result, they maintain their soft feel.

Micromodal fabrics are washed and ironed like cotton. Another noteworthy quality is their ability to absorb sweat. In fact, this fiber is about 50% more hygroscopic compared to cotton. Additionally, it is hypoallergenic just like cotton. It is ideal for intimate apparel and fabrics for the bathroom and home.

A Bit of History

Micromodal is a patent of the Austrian company Lenzing, which produces the best fiber on the market. This company uses only beech wood pulp from sustainable forests, which is very important for the environment. All processes are done in an eco-friendly way, so much so that the company has been awarded the European Eco-Label. The origins of this fiber date back to the 1960s (Viscose or Rayon). Over the years, production techniques have improved, leading to today’s excellence, which further enhances the qualities of this fiber.

Applications

The primary use of this fiber is in the world of intimate apparel, for both men and women. Micromodal garments are lightweight, soft, and pleasant to the touch. They do not cause allergies and are comfortable both in summer and winter. The multitude of microfibers that trap air act as an insulator, both against heat and cold. In intimate apparel, micromodal is elasticized with elastane in a proportion of 6-10%. The fabric becomes more resistant and stable to washing, and the fit and comfort properties are greatly improved. In the fashion sector, micromodal is combined with wool or cotton to enhance the hand feel and durability of these two natural fibers.

Modal and Micromodal

Modal and Micromodal are the same fiber, derived in the same way and from the same base (beech wood pulp). The difference between the two materials lies in the dimensions. Micromodal fiber is thinner and much lighter compared to Modal. Its size is about 6 microns. For this reason, Micromodal falls into the category of microfibers. This quality allows Micromodal fabric, even with a much denser weave, to breathe like Modal.

Ramie – A Versatile Plant with a Rich History

Ramie is a plant from the nettle family, originating in Asia where it is also used for ornamental purposes. If left to grow unchecked, it tends to colonize vast areas. These plants can reach heights between 1 and 2.5 meters. The leaves are heart-shaped, measuring 7 to 12 cm in width and about 15 cm in length. The underside of the leaves is white and covered with dense hairs. Due to its rapid growth, up to four harvests can be made annually. There are two varieties: white, cultivated in China, and green from Malaysia. The largest producers in the world are China, Korea, Taiwan, the Philippines, and Brazil.

A Bit of History

It has been used as a fiber since ancient times, particularly in the Far East. It is believed that the Chinese used it long before cotton arrived in Asia. In Egypt, as early as 5000 B.C., this fiber, known for its silky sheen and resistance to bacteria, worms, and molds, was used for making mummy garments. Archaeological findings have demonstrated the material’s durability, with these garments remaining intact to this day! The name “ramie” is thought to come from the word “Rameh,” used by the indigenous people of the Sunda Islands to refer to this plant.

Sunda Islands

Ramie arrived in Europe in 1753, in Leipzig. Many acclimatization trials were conducted in France, Germany, and the Netherlands, but the plant’s low resistance to harsh winter conditions yielded poor results. In America, the first ramie crops were established in Florida in 1855, and later in Mexico.

The Qualities and Uses

This fiber is derived from the bark of Boehmeria nivea after a long and costly extraction process. The fibers are rich in cellulose and very long (12 cm). They are shiny and ivory-colored, earning them the name “vegetable silk.” As mentioned, they are resistant to mold, bacteria, and worms, and are highly absorbent and cool. Additionally, they are easy to bleach and withstand high temperatures. It does not shrink when washed and is very strong when wet. These qualities make it ideal for blending with other fibers such as cotton and wool.

However, ramie also has some drawbacks. It is not very elastic, wrinkles easily like linen, and does not resist abrasion well. Among its many uses are the production of tablecloths, fishing nets, handkerchiefs, and summer clothing. It is also used for making security paper and summer hats.

Cultivation in Italy

The first attempt to cultivate ramie in Italy was in 1786 near Bologna, but it was unsuccessful. Cultivation resumed in Sicily after a long hiatus. The possibility of introducing ramie to Europe was linked to its industrial use, which was unknown until the 1800s. In the early 20th century, there were many initiatives in Germany, followed by France, Austria, and Italy, to develop an industrial cycle capable of extracting and processing the fiber. This period of enthusiasm was followed by a decline in cultivation, which resumed after World War I.

How Ramie is Obtained

The first step is the decortication of the plant, which must be done by hand. Once the raw fibers are obtained, they are washed and then dried to remove the gummy parts using chemical reagents. This phase purifies the fibers and raises the cellulose content to 95%. The next step is spinning, which is complex due to the fragility of the material. Dyeing is also challenging because of the fiber’s poor ability to absorb color. However, once dyed, ramie fabrics are very colorfast, allowing for easy stain removal.

Ecologically, nothing of this plant is wasted. While the bark is used for textile fiber, the inner part, rich in cellulose, is used to make high-quality paper. The leaves are used as animal feed due to their nutritional qualities, similar to those of alfalfa.

Fashion

Ramie is not widely used in the fashion industry due to its high cost. It is more commonly found blended with viscose, linen, or hemp, enhancing these fibers by making them more lustrous, soft, and stable when washed. Only a few brands feature pure ramie in their collections, with the most common garments being scarves, shirts, and pants. This represents a small niche market. The largest use of this fiber is in the home furnishings sector, with production focused on tablecloths, pillowcases, and blankets.

Bamboo

Bamboo is a plant native to Asia, but it is also found in America, certain regions of Africa, and Oceania. In Europe, there are no wild species of this plant; it is only imported. In our regions, it is considered a garden plant. It is an invasive species that, if left unchecked, tends to occupy large areas. These evergreen plants are very strong and can range in height from a few centimeters to significant heights. In fact, they can grow up to 40 meters tall with a stem diameter of 30 cm.

A Bit of History

Bamboo is hollow, lightweight, and very tough. For this reason, it has been used for centuries for various purposes. As early as the 13th century in China, as recorded in Marco Polo’s “The Travels of Marco Polo,” it was used to make sturdy ropes for building bridges and mooring ships. The most striking example of the remarkable properties of this wood is the suspension bridge over the Min River. This bridge connected the two banks for more than 1,700 years (until 2008).

In the Sichuan region, bamboo trunks were used to make pipes that irrigated rice fields over an area of more than 5,000 square kilometers. Bamboo was also used to make pipes that transported natural gas to village homes. In more recent times, bamboo was used to make deadly traps during the Vietnam War. Finally, fibers are woven to make sails and even paper.

The Qualities and Uses

Due to its mechanical resistance to both compression and tension, bamboo is referred to as “vegetable steel.” In the field of engineering, bamboo is used as a construction material. In regions where this plant is widespread, it is used in place of concrete, steel, and wood. We can talk about bamboo engineering. This plant is used to make pillars and beams, bamboo laminates, and highly resistant composites. In many areas of China, bamboo is still used for construction scaffolding.

Bamboo Shoots

Bamboo shoots are an excellent food source. Fermented leaves are used to make alcoholic beverages. In China, canes are used to ferment wine, while in Thailand, the entire plant is consumed. In Guangdong, southern China, the Pseudosasa amabilis variety is used to make fishing rods for fly fishing. Giant bamboo has various uses, including the production of musical instruments like the shakuachi flute or didgeridoo, and for making Japanese bows used in the discipline of Kyudo. Afghan artist Massoud Hassani used bamboo for his work “Mine Kafon,” which was exhibited at the MoMA in New York.

Bamboo and Mythology

For the Chinese, the longevity of bamboo symbolizes long life, while in India it is a symbol of friendship. Since it rarely flowers, this is seen as a sign of impending famine. This belief is due to the fact that rats feed on the fallen flowers; therefore, their population explodes and endangers much of the crops. The last flowering occurred in May 2006. It appears that bamboo flowers in this manner only once every 50 years.

Various Asian cultures believe that humans descended from a bamboo stem. In the Philippines, the legend tells that the first man and woman originated from the opening of a bamboo shoot, which emerged on an island created by the clash between the sky and the ocean. In Japan, Shinto monasteries are often surrounded by a small bamboo forest, intended to be a sacred barrier against evil.

Fashion

Bamboo textile fiber is obtained from the stem through an alkaline hydrolysis process. Laboratory analyses have shown that this fiber is similar to viscose and has the same stability and durability. The fabric, thanks to its qualities, is ideal for contact with the skin. Due to its antibacterial properties and high absorbency, it is suitable for both clothing and underwear.

Thanks to the many cavities that trap air, garments made from this fiber are breathable and capable of absorbing moisture and sweat. In fact, compared to cotton, bamboo breathes three times more. It is cooler and there are no unpleasant odors. It is ideal for bed sheets as its anti-moth and anti-mite properties ensure that 95% of these parasites die within 24 hours.

Longjohns – the origins

It’s not easy to find information on the beginnings longjohns. We have to go back to the V century to find any item resembling this garment. The Persians used to wear an article of clothing known as anaxyrides, a kind of stocking breeches mix  which was worn under a tunic. This kind of garment was in fashion for many centuries, it was used in alternate phases as outwear and underwear. Towards the end of the VIII century we can still find traces of the use of this garment; it has become tighter and often with the addition of a strap under the foot as act as a form of footwear. In the middle ages and later eras, men continued to use this item, they enhanced it’s basic design with padding and bright colours.

(anaxyrides)

The development

In the XVII century, the long underwear or longjohns as they became known as, began to have an actual shape; their use as a form of tights worn as outerwear. Very popular in the middle ages, was abandoned in favour a use more connected to that of underwear. Even considering this change, longjohns were not a great success. We have to wait until the end of the XVIII century, for their popularity to become more widespread. In this period, they were used almost always as a garment for nightwear and were made in cotton or wool.

Around  the 1800’s they became popular in the United States. This was mainly due to the reform  movement in clothing, which spread from the UK during the Victorian age; this movement proposed the use of more comfortable and practical garments. Often the longjohns were attached to a vest  with long sleeves, which in America they called “Union Suits”

(Union suits)

The use of longjohns spread to Europe at the beginning of the 1900’s; the labourers wore them to keep out the cold and then to sleep in. They were also used by the military, in fact the soldiers used them as a form of protection under their uniform. In the two world wars in the 1900’s this garment was in great demand for the troops in various armies.

The role of Longjohns in the cinema

This garment was often used in the cimema, especially in historic or western films. The leading actor can frequently be seen wearing the classic longjohns. In italy they appeared in many films, starring Bud Spencer and Terence Hill; the most famous “spaghetti western ” being “Lo chiamavano Trinità”. A very young Harrison Ford  can been seen wearing longjohns together with Gene Wilder in the American western comedy “The Frisco Kid“. The longjohns are without any doubt an iconic western garment.

(Harrison Ford and Gene Wilder)

The longjohns nowadays

In present times, this garment is used mainly for sporting activities, especially skiing, hunting and fishing or by motorcycle riders. Their shape hasn’t changed so much, but the fabric in which they are made has been developed in different ways. This fact, gives the possibility to meet all the requirements; using different fibers and fabric weights, we can produce longjohns in various weights and with different levels of warmth and comfort.

Our collections

Since 1977, when our company was founded, we have been producing this classic garment a necessity in men’s underwear. Obviously, following our company policy we use the highest quality natural fibers available, our production is made in many different types of natural material ranging from pure Merino wool, incorporating wool and silk, the elegant pure silk and finishing with the luxurious mix of cashmere and silk 

For those who have allergy problems, but wish to keep the warmth provided by wool, we have the perfect solution in our wool and cotton special fabric. This is a double layer material; it has the soft cotton layer against the skin meanwhile the wool layer is on the outside to protect from the cold. In this way, we can avoid all the problems which wool can create when it comes in contact with the skin. Our models have been researched and are designed to give maximum comfort; the seams are flat and there is an elastic band at the ankles, even the elastic waistband is adjustable by 3 buttons to ensure a perfect fit.

Insights

wikipedia

 

Boxers – The history

The name “boxers” originates from the sport of boxing. This is a very old sport, practised since the ancient times. The earliest boxer shorts date from the 1900’s. These shorts used to have a leather belt at the waistband. Boxers first started being used as an underwear garment from 1925, due mainly to Everlast ,an american company which produced sports clothing for boxers. They replaced the leather belt with and elastic waistband and this small adjustment created a new role for boxers in the clothing world-underwear. This new garment was an immediate sales success, but this success was soon replaced by the “briefs” which became the most widespread  item of male underwear.

(boxer)

In the years to come, the boxers and the briefs competed for the major share in the market. The sales boom and the popularity of boxers increased significantly in the 80’s, as a result of a television advert produced by the Levi Strauss  jeans company, featuring the male model Nick Kamen, removing his jeans, putting them in a washing machine, and then waiting for the end of the washing cycle wearing only his boxers underwear. The massive success of this advert, led to a huge increase in sales.

Approximately ten years later, in the 90’s a new model of boxers appeared on the market. They were more fitted and followed the body lines and had more or less the same level of support as briefs. This new design was adopted by the younger generation, who wore them under their low waisted jeans. Most importantly, was the fact that the boxers were visible above the waistband of the jeans. Other models of boxers were created with much shorter legs, these fitted almost like briefs, but had the benefit of being esthetically more pleasing.

The role of boxer underwear in the cinema.

This garment has a main role in many films, above all those which featured the sport of boxing the most famous being Rocky starring Silvester Stallone, where this garment appears in its sport version; or in films where the main actor has to remain just in his underwear. Boxers are certainly the most appealing and accepted form of underwear. Who doesn’t remember Jason Statham in the film “The Transporter” or Ryan Reynolds in the film “Deadpool” where they appear in many scenes dressed only in boxers. In the same way most of the actors who played the role of James Bond (007) such as Sean Connery or Daniel Craig have at least one scene where they are filmed in only their underwear

(Ryan Reynolds in Deadpool)

(Jason Statham in The transporter)

How they are made

Boxer can be made using different fabrics such as canvas or knitted. The last one can be elasticated and therefore the final garment will be fitted, or we can use a wider cut for a looser fit. All designs have an elastic waistband which is quite high to distribute the pressure in an even way without any discomfort. In some models the elastic is visible, whilst in others it is covered with the same fabric used to make the garment. This choice is for various reasons, it can be simply a question of aesthetics, or it can be used to make the garment hypoallergenic; obviously, for this case we would use a cotton fabric. Boxers made in canvas fabric, usually have a  split on each leg, to make them easier to wear.

Our production of boxers

We have a vast collection featuring a wide range of boxers. From the canvas models which we produce with an open elastic waistband and with a two button closing for maximum comfort; obviously these canvas boxers have the classic splits on both legs which are fundamental for a perfect fit. The seams are flat double sewn for a great comfort and durability. We also produce many models in Lisle cotton yarn jersey; these designs have a wide cut for great comfort, making them perfect to use as sleepwear, thanks to the freshness and natural elasticity of the fabric. To finish, we have those made in elasticated cotton, these are very fitted and give the highest level of support. Ideal for those who play sports.

Insights

Wikipedia