The Vicuña – The Fleece of the Gods
The Vicuña, is a camelid that lives in the Andes, whose wool was used by the Incas to weave the garments of their kings; hence the nickname “Fleece of the Gods.” This people cared for and considered this rare animal sacred. It was almost exterminated along with the Incas with the arrival of the Spanish conquistadors. In the ’60s/’70s, the first actions to protect and repopulate the Vicuña began. In fact, in Washington in 1976, it was listed as an endangered species and thus was given the highest protection. This action, promoted by the UN international convention, ended the slaughter and exploitation. Today, thanks to these control measures, this animal has reached a population of about 180,000 individuals.
(Vicuña)
The Value of the Vicuña
The Vicuña has qualities that are nothing short of unique in nature. In fact, its fiber has a diameter of 12 µm and is softer, finer, and shinier than Cashmere, which measures 15 µm. Fabrics made from this fiber are so soft that they make Cashmere feel rough in comparison. This is why it is called the Fleece of the Gods. Fabrics made from this fiber are very warm and shiny and almost seem to contain silk.
Another reason for its value is the small amount of wool obtained from each animal. Only 250 grams every two years! In fact, Vicuña shearing is done only by hand, in biennial cycles, and no more than 5 times in the lifetime of each animal. This is done to respect the animal and its natural molting cycles.
For this reason, the price of raw wool is over $400 per kg and reaches about $2000 per kg for yarn ready for weaving. Needless to say, these prices place it in the realm of extreme luxury.
Usage
Due to the price of Vicuña and the rarity of this fiber, its use is confined to super-luxury items, such as tailored coats and jackets and scarves. Only a few companies can afford to purchase this fiber. Among these are Piacenza and Loro Piana. The latter has initiated the repopulation of the Vicuña in agreement with the Peruvian government. In fact, a private reserve called “Reserva Dr. Franco Loro Piana” was established. Here, the Vicuña can live in the wild, safe from poachers and uncontrolled exploitation. A great example of eco-sustainability that does Italy proud!