Artificial Fibers
Artificial fibers are derived from renewable raw materials, such as wood cellulose, milk proteins (casein), and cotton linters. They resemble natural fibers in appearance and quality. The major advantage of these fibers is that they can be custom-made for their intended uses. Depending on the need, there are opaque or shiny fibers. They can be rigid, elastic, rough, or soft. Artificial fibers are created through chemical reactions that alter natural fibers. Depending on the starting material and the reagent used, various types of fibers can be produced.
Cotton Linters
Artificial fibers are often thought to cause bad odors, allergies, and discomfort. Some believe they are harmful to health and the environment. None of this is true! In fact, due to their development, artificial fibers can prevent, reduce, and often solve these issues.
History
The first attempts to create artificial fibers date back to 1884 when Count De Chardonnet succeeded in creating a thread with a bit of nitrocellulose through an extrusion process. This artificial silk was named Rayon and immediately encountered two problems:
1. It was dangerous, as it burned easily.
2. It was more expensive than natural silk.
In 1890, cuprammonium Rayon was created, which is almost identical to silk in shine and feel. In Italy, the first artificial silk company was established in 1920 by the SNIA, “Società di Navigazione Italo Americana,” a shipping company that operated maritime transport between Italy and the United States. As the shipping market changed, SNIA decided to invest in industrial activities. Three companies came under SNIA’s control:
- Società Viscosa di Pavia (1920)
- Italiana Fabbriche Viscosa di Venaria (1920)
- Italiana Seta Artificiale di Cesano Maderno (1921)
(SNIA – Artificial fibers)
The Boom
The growth phase continued in 1925 with the construction of a new plant in Torino Stura. In 1927, SNIA Viscosa took control of the Artificial Silk Group with plants in Varedo and Magenta. Annual Rayon production increased from 500,000 kg in 1920 to over 9.5 million kg during the Great Depression of 1929.
In the same years, the artificial fibers industry developed in Châtillon, in the Aosta Valley, due to the proximity of hydroelectric power plants, with facilities also in Ivrea and Vercelli (Società Soie de Châtillon). An acetate factory was established in Pallanza, Rhodiaseta, which later became Rhodiatoce (with Rhône-Poulenc patents). Another plant was set up in Gozzano (Novara) using the cuprammonium process with cellulose (cotton linters) from the Bemberg company. Finally, in Pizzighettone (Cremona), corden was produced, a fiber used for tire fabrics.
Types of Artificial Fibers
Rayon is the first artificial fiber, but over the years, driven by eco-sustainability, many others have been created. Here is a list of these new materials:
All these fibers are similar, except for Lanital, which is derived from milk proteins. It is very similar to wool, sharing many qualities such as insulation, softness, and feel. Additionally, it is less attractive to moths. Artificial fibers can be divided based on their origin:
- Cellulosic (from wood)
- Protein-based (from milk and corn proteins)
- Alginic (from algae)
