Ramie – A Versatile Plant with a Rich History
Ramie is a plant from the nettle family, originating in Asia where it is also used for ornamental purposes. If left to grow unchecked, it tends to colonize vast areas. These plants can reach heights between 1 and 2.5 meters. The leaves are heart-shaped, measuring 7 to 12 cm in width and about 15 cm in length. The underside of the leaves is white and covered with dense hairs. Due to its rapid growth, up to four harvests can be made annually. There are two varieties: white, cultivated in China, and green from Malaysia. The largest producers in the world are China, Korea, Taiwan, the Philippines, and Brazil.
A Bit of History
It has been used as a fiber since ancient times, particularly in the Far East. It is believed that the Chinese used it long before cotton arrived in Asia. In Egypt, as early as 5000 B.C., this fiber, known for its silky sheen and resistance to bacteria, worms, and molds, was used for making mummy garments. Archaeological findings have demonstrated the material’s durability, with these garments remaining intact to this day! The name “ramie” is thought to come from the word “Rameh,” used by the indigenous people of the Sunda Islands to refer to this plant.
Sunda Islands
Ramie arrived in Europe in 1753, in Leipzig. Many acclimatization trials were conducted in France, Germany, and the Netherlands, but the plant’s low resistance to harsh winter conditions yielded poor results. In America, the first ramie crops were established in Florida in 1855, and later in Mexico.
The Qualities and Uses
This fiber is derived from the bark of Boehmeria nivea after a long and costly extraction process. The fibers are rich in cellulose and very long (12 cm). They are shiny and ivory-colored, earning them the name “vegetable silk.” As mentioned, they are resistant to mold, bacteria, and worms, and are highly absorbent and cool. Additionally, they are easy to bleach and withstand high temperatures. It does not shrink when washed and is very strong when wet. These qualities make it ideal for blending with other fibers such as cotton and wool.
However, ramie also has some drawbacks. It is not very elastic, wrinkles easily like linen, and does not resist abrasion well. Among its many uses are the production of tablecloths, fishing nets, handkerchiefs, and summer clothing. It is also used for making security paper and summer hats.
Cultivation in Italy
The first attempt to cultivate ramie in Italy was in 1786 near Bologna, but it was unsuccessful. Cultivation resumed in Sicily after a long hiatus. The possibility of introducing ramie to Europe was linked to its industrial use, which was unknown until the 1800s. In the early 20th century, there were many initiatives in Germany, followed by France, Austria, and Italy, to develop an industrial cycle capable of extracting and processing the fiber. This period of enthusiasm was followed by a decline in cultivation, which resumed after World War I.
How Ramie is Obtained
The first step is the decortication of the plant, which must be done by hand. Once the raw fibers are obtained, they are washed and then dried to remove the gummy parts using chemical reagents. This phase purifies the fibers and raises the cellulose content to 95%. The next step is spinning, which is complex due to the fragility of the material. Dyeing is also challenging because of the fiber’s poor ability to absorb color. However, once dyed, ramie fabrics are very colorfast, allowing for easy stain removal.
Ecologically, nothing of this plant is wasted. While the bark is used for textile fiber, the inner part, rich in cellulose, is used to make high-quality paper. The leaves are used as animal feed due to their nutritional qualities, similar to those of alfalfa.
Fashion
Ramie is not widely used in the fashion industry due to its high cost. It is more commonly found blended with viscose, linen, or hemp, enhancing these fibers by making them more lustrous, soft, and stable when washed. Only a few brands feature pure ramie in their collections, with the most common garments being scarves, shirts, and pants. This represents a small niche market. The largest use of this fiber is in the home furnishings sector, with production focused on tablecloths, pillowcases, and blankets.
